front brake rotors
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front brake rotors
I'm going to change the front brake rotors on my 1998 SLE to slotted and drilled aftermarket type. Any problems in removing the stock rotors? I've heard that ceramic pads are the way to go. Any comments?
RStreet3
RStreet3
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Originally Posted by willwren
Forget drilled. They will only cost you in the long run. Slotted or smooth.
The
come apart q uite easily.
The
come apart q uite easily.
#4
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Replace both front brake lines when you do the rotors. Cheap insurance. As they age, they collapse and don't release the caliper properly, causing break 'drag' and warping.
In addition, we're under-braked to begin with. Wheel lug torque is critical. Clean all 10 front lug studs with a wire toothbrush, run the lugs in and out a couple times, and repeat. Then apply a drop or two of oil to the outer thread or two, then clean the face of the rotor hat and the inside face of the wheel. Install the wheel, and stage-torque. First to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern (every other), then to the final torque of 100.
If you value your rotors, you'll follow these steps.
In addition, we're under-braked to begin with. Wheel lug torque is critical. Clean all 10 front lug studs with a wire toothbrush, run the lugs in and out a couple times, and repeat. Then apply a drop or two of oil to the outer thread or two, then clean the face of the rotor hat and the inside face of the wheel. Install the wheel, and stage-torque. First to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern (every other), then to the final torque of 100.
If you value your rotors, you'll follow these steps.
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Originally Posted by willwren
Replace both front brake lines when you do the rotors. Cheap insurance. As they age, they collapse and don't release the caliper properly, causing break 'drag' and warping.
In addition, we're under-braked to begin with. Wheel lug torque is critical. Clean all 10 front lug studs with a wire toothbrush, run the lugs in and out a couple times, and repeat. Then apply a drop or two of oil to the outer thread or two, then clean the face of the rotor hat and the inside face of the wheel. Install the wheel, and stage-torque. First to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern (every other), then to the final torque of 100.
If you value your rotors, you'll follow these steps.
In addition, we're under-braked to begin with. Wheel lug torque is critical. Clean all 10 front lug studs with a wire toothbrush, run the lugs in and out a couple times, and repeat. Then apply a drop or two of oil to the outer thread or two, then clean the face of the rotor hat and the inside face of the wheel. Install the wheel, and stage-torque. First to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern (every other), then to the final torque of 100.
If you value your rotors, you'll follow these steps.
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Warped Brake Rotors
Best way to avoid warped rotors is to adjust the rear brakes. I've tried the drilled and slotted rotors and they still warped. Adjust the brakes and install new regular rotors, you'll be fine.
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Re: front brake rotors
Originally Posted by RStreet3
I'm going to change the front brake rotors on my 1998 SLE to slotted and drilled aftermarket type. Any problems in removing the stock rotors? I've heard that ceramic pads are the way to go. Any comments?
RStreet3
RStreet3
Last year I installed Napa premium rotors and Raybestos "Quiet Stop" ceramic pads. In less than 8,000 miles the rotors had warped. I replaced the rotors with Brembos (that were not quite as robust as the Napa rotors) and Hawk HPS pads. It seems that some of us who installed ceramic pads in the last year had early rotor warping. We all blamed poor quality rotors; now I'm thinking that ceramic pads may have contributed to the problem. So far the Hawk HPS are quieter and stop better than the Quiet Stop pads, but it has been less than a month.
-sp4149
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