1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

93 SE having issues with engine speed

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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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Default 93 SE having issues with engine speed

This happened to me today, but it is not the first time it has happened. Driving around town, my car will refuse to go above 2000-2500 rpm regardless of whether I punch it, or ease onto the throttle. If I stop and let the car sit for a few minutes, the problem will go away, but will reappear a few minutes later. All the gauges are reading nominal, and there does not seem to be any other contributing issues. Does anyone have an idea of what is going on?
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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May be a plugged catalytic converter. I'd do a back pressure test. Is it lacking power also? I mean from idle up to 2000-2500?
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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That'* my bet, too. Kick the cat. Hear a noise? Replace it.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 11:06 PM
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well, at least there is a consensus here.
Fatcat, there does not seem to be any power lacking below 2k-2500 rpm,, but at 60 mph on level ground, how much do you need?
How do I do a back pressure test?
The only thing is that wouldn't a plugged cat make the car do this all the time? As mentioned earlier, I've had this happen before, then it won't do it for a week or two, then will reappear.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 11:51 PM
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The problem is intermittant.
With regards to the SES light, no it has not come on.
The tranny will shift into second, but will then immediately start to do it'* thing.
hope this helps
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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A busted up cat converter can plug intermittant. A big broken chunk may turn sideways in the shell and restrict flow, then turn again and allow flow. They can also be dependant on heat as far as the flow abilities....the hotter it gets the less it flows.

I'd still do a back pressure test to verify the converter condition, then a fuel pressure test to verify the fuel pump condition.

Back Pressure Tester

Basically, you unscrew the O2 sensor that is between the engine and the converter, then plug a pressure guage into the hole. Start the engine and drive the car until the problem is duplicated. If the pressure goes over 4 p.*.i. while driving, your converter is shot. Personally I don't like anything over 3 p.*.i. while driving, but if your converter is plugged it will usually register about 25-30 + p.*.i. just by snapping the throttle at idle or under a heavy load. A dead give away.

Check the fuel pressure when this is occuring also. May be a weak fuel pump.
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Old Aug 13, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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They last until the warranty runs out.
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