'96 SSEi Starting Problems
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'96 SSEi Starting Problems
Hey again everyone. It'* been a while since I have posted here, though am usually looking through post'* every day, just don't have the tech know-how to say much. Anyhow, I bought a '96 SSEi a couple of weeks ago and am having only 2 problems with it. The first is a starting problem. At times, the car act'* like it is carbureted. I can turn the key over, and it won't fire up. The starter turns, but its like it'* not getting fuel. If I press the gas down a bit, the car will fire up and run perfect until the next time I try to start it. It has plenty of power, is good on gas, and like I said, runs prefect once it'* started, which makes me wonder what it might be. I thought of fuel pump, plugs, wires and what not, but wouldn't that make the car run poorly? Also, at times, the car will start perfect. It seems as if it just gets in a bad mood lol
The other problem is the keyless and lock systems. I am adding this because I don't know if the two problems (starting and this) are connected. The car did not come with a Remote, but being an SSEi, I knew it could use one, so I went to TechInfo and got the procedure for programming one, and used one off my other '96 Bonnie. The remote works fine, but at times the doors will not unlock. It'* usually just the 'press-once' drivers door. Usually when I press it twice, all the doors will unlock perfectly. Also, the car at times does not lock when put into Drive or unlock when the ignition is shut off. The headlights do always flash with the remote though. And I get the occasional 'ticking' under the passenger side dash board.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make sure everything was laid down. By the way, I did learn from the last time, and checked both ground connectors under the drivers and passenger side doors (that was the problem on my last car. Thanks again for that!) and they were both as clean an dry as when they came off the factory floor.
Thanks again for the help everyone, and if anyone in Ontario is looking for a great shape '96 Bonnie (my green one, not the new one ) give me a shout.
The other problem is the keyless and lock systems. I am adding this because I don't know if the two problems (starting and this) are connected. The car did not come with a Remote, but being an SSEi, I knew it could use one, so I went to TechInfo and got the procedure for programming one, and used one off my other '96 Bonnie. The remote works fine, but at times the doors will not unlock. It'* usually just the 'press-once' drivers door. Usually when I press it twice, all the doors will unlock perfectly. Also, the car at times does not lock when put into Drive or unlock when the ignition is shut off. The headlights do always flash with the remote though. And I get the occasional 'ticking' under the passenger side dash board.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make sure everything was laid down. By the way, I did learn from the last time, and checked both ground connectors under the drivers and passenger side doors (that was the problem on my last car. Thanks again for that!) and they were both as clean an dry as when they came off the factory floor.
Thanks again for the help everyone, and if anyone in Ontario is looking for a great shape '96 Bonnie (my green one, not the new one ) give me a shout.
#2
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The tough start could be a bad pcm temp sensor telling the car it is up to temp when it is cold. Or any of the other sensors that do about the same.
The lock could be a poor connection to the drivers master switch.
The lock could be a poor connection to the drivers master switch.
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Thanks for the quick reply. For the sensors, would they show up with an OBDII code checker? I forgot to mention that I scanned the car and no codes came up. The other thing I about is that at times there is a smell of gas when the car is off, but I can't find any leaks anywhere outside the car, near the lines, or in the engine compartment.
I will check the lock switch in the morning. Thanks again.
I will check the lock switch in the morning. Thanks again.
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Hey again. Just wanted to update a bit. I had the car completley looked over today. The mechanic said that all sensors are working perfect, no codes, and he said all were within the proper range (powerwise). He also said the fuel pressure was perfect, and that there are no fuel leaks. He let the car sit for a while to see if it lost fuel pressure, and he said it didn't loose much at all. The only thing he found was the plugs were a little dirty and at .080, so he suggested changing them, and the wires as he said they are original. However, he said the plugs and wires should not be causing this, as the car doesn't do it all the time and runs great. I ordered new plugs and wires and am probably going to change them (or get them changed) tomorrow to see if that helps.
Anyone have any more suggestions? The mechanic is also stumped by the fact that when the car won't start, I press the gas peddle a little bit and it fires right up.
Thanks everyone.
Anyone have any more suggestions? The mechanic is also stumped by the fact that when the car won't start, I press the gas peddle a little bit and it fires right up.
Thanks everyone.
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Hey again everyone and thanks Ted for the new responce. I didn't think of the coil pack, but I don't have a voltmeter to check them. I did replace the Plugs, Wires and PCV valve a couple of days ago. The car ran great before, but it has more power now and is much smoother. Didn't fix the starting problem though. I tried something yesterday and today as the car didn't start either day. I turned it over, no start. So I pressed the gas peddle all the way to the floor (to shut the fuel off) and it fired right up. I am wondering if there is anything that could be making the engine continue to get gas after it is shut off, or perhaps could the engine be getting to much gas between the time I turn the key to Ignition and start it? It'* almost as though the car is flooding itself before I start it, and that of course would explain the gas smell I get on occasion.
Thanks again Bill and TechTed for your replies, I appreciate the help. Of course, if you have any more suggestions, they are more then welcome.
Thanks again Bill and TechTed for your replies, I appreciate the help. Of course, if you have any more suggestions, they are more then welcome.
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After driving a short distance, disconnect the vacuum line to your Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if there'* fuel in the vacuum line. If there is, replace your FPR. It could be flooding the manifold.
If you don't find fuel in the vacuum line, remove your fuel rail with the injectors in it, and turn the ignition on (with the fuel lines still hooked up) and see if any of your injectors are stuck open, bleeding fuel into the manifold.
If you don't find fuel in the vacuum line, remove your fuel rail with the injectors in it, and turn the ignition on (with the fuel lines still hooked up) and see if any of your injectors are stuck open, bleeding fuel into the manifold.
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I don't think I am quite up to removing the fuel lines yet, but I will check out the Fuel pressure Regulator. Thanks Willwren, much appreciated. I do have another question though. If the car is flooding itself, either with the FPR or an injector, will that cause damage to the car, or will I just have to start it like I have to now? I'm not saying I don't want to fix it, but if it'* going to cause problems, I will take it back into my mechanic right away.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#9
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Long term anything wrong can cause issues. Short term...it'* causing the hard start situation.
Sounds like you are on top of getting it fixed.
Sounds like you are on top of getting it fixed.
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Thanks guys. I haven't been feeling too well these past couple of days, so I will post back when I check the FPR, and hopefully I will get someone to check the injectors as well of the FPR is ok.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.