So earlier today i go to start the car and it sounds like its started and ready to idle, but when i let go of the ignition it stalls right away...but if i hit the gas i can keep the car running until i let go of the gas.

Its as if in order to keep it running, i have to have my foot ont he gas at all times.

Now i do have a code 41 on the check engine light. Cam shaft sensor. But that was sposedly fixed when me and my friend did it a while ago. The problems with starting just happened today and i dunno what to think.

Well anyway, thanks for helpin this noob out with his problems

I think this would point to the IAC again, since it controls the amount of air flowing into the engine at idle. When your foot is on the gas, the IAC is not used and air can enter the engine normally through the TB. Did you ever take it out to clean? It sounds like it is stuck closed or something like that.

No ive never gotten around to it cause ive been busy...had to work so i havent had the time. Tomorrows my day off so ill try and get too it.

But thanks for the help, i appreciate it.

Does the engine bog or anything? Like is it powerless? Or does it run just fine, but it just won't idle?

If it runs fine, but just won't idle, it could be the throttle is closed too far [either too far that the IAC cannot correct it], or the IAC is not working whatsoever. Or it could be a vacuum leak [small if the car still runs good].

If the car runs bogged down and just overall not good. It could the car is extremely rich [this could be due to not just too much fuel, but also other fluids.. like transmission fluid], timing extremely off, large vacuum leak.

Try to correct the cam sensor as soon as possible. It very well could be related to the poor running of the car. If it were, chances are the car could run good occasionally, but if it'* 100% of the time the car has problems, it probably isn't the cam sensor. The code 41 could be the cam sensor, or cam magnets. Either way, it'* a simple fix.


-justin

There was only one time that the car idled at 500rpms, the next time i started it was after i added new plugs and wires and it idled at 1000rpms just fine.

But then the problem came back and it would be that the engine gives me the power, but just wont idle because i have to keep my foot on the gas in order for it to idle.

If i replace or clean the IAC and the problem still occurs, is there anything else i can do myself. So far all the information ive gotten has been great and ive been able to do everything myself. So i appreciate it.

If you let off the gas, does the engine stall immediately? Or does it kinda keep firing and idle really low? Or does it stay running for a second or two, and the idle slowly drops off, until it gets lower than 400RPM [probably 500RPM on the tach] and then instantly stalls?

If cleaning the TB, IAC, and MAF Sensor [probably isn't related to your problem, but you may as well, because it can't hurt] does not fix the problem, check all your vacuum lines and vacuum distribution block to make sure nothing is damaged, cracked, deteriorated, etc. If touching your vacuum lines leads to getting black crap on your hands, or it is crumbling, cracked, etc.. just replace them all. It'* real cheap. Take in one of the old lines to get the right size for you. This cannot hurt, even if it isn't a vacuum leak.

If you pull any of the vacuum lines, and there is a red fluid, or any fluid at all, the vacuum modulator could be leaking [unlikely, because you would have transmission problems in conjunction with the lack of an idle], or the Fuel Pressure Regulator [FPR] diaphram is damaged [engine would still run just fine, because it is still getting the fuel it needs, but it is coming in the intake versus the injectors]. Or this could cause the engine to be excessively rich only and idle, thus causing the lack of idle.

I'm going overboard here, because it sounds like you just have a vacuum leak, or air leak somewhere. IMO, no matter how dirty the IAC is, it should still function.. it just may not be very fast [this could cause the car to not idle one day, but after driving the car a little it would idle fine].

All in all, if you still cannot pinpoint the problem after all of that, you just have to re-adjust the idle screw on the TB which controls how much the butterfly closes at idle. do this last, because although it could fix your problem, it could be a different problem at hand, and it would be better if you just fix that. This is just a cover up if the problem lies elsewhere. If the problem does not lie elsewhere, however, then this is how you could go about fixing it. Oh yeah, make sure the bolt on top of the TB which holds the TV cable backet thing is tight, and the butterfly on the TB doesn't go over that idle screw and bypass it completely.


-justin

EDIT: I will take pics and show you where everything is at, if you need.

Pics would be appreciated

But when i let off the gas the car stalls right away, sometimes it will idle around 500rpms and then stall but that only happened once. The rest of the time it wouldnt even idle because once i let my foot off the gas the car would stall.

So far i have no transmission problems at all...the only problem i have is that it will stall going into reverse and drive sometimes but that rarely happens and ive heard this is also due to age because when i go into drive or reverse, the rpms will drop significantly and cause it to stall.

But besides that no tranny problems.

You were talking about fluid, but right below my coil pack i have a greenish...goo...or something thats formed on the hose right below the coil pack. I dont know what it is, and i believe its been there for most of the time ive had the car so i dont believe its causing me any problems. Maybe you could help me there but thats what i think.

Thanks for the help man, i appreciate it.


Dave

The greenish goo is probably from the coil pack. With age, the goo in the ICM melts. But I have never seen it leak out of the coil pack. You could probably trace it back to the coil pack. Otherwise, it very well could be coolant too. Don't worry about it though, I highly doubt it is related to your idle problems.

I'll snap some pics of everything. I have the fix for the cooling tubes on the TB, so it doesn't leak, or doesn't want to fit on. Removing the TB is kind of a PITA, but after you do it a few times, it becomes second nature.

Sounds like a vacuum leak since the car stalls instantly. The reverse/drive engagement stalling is due to the idle problem you have. And hiccups are normal. I have the exact same issue.. but I believe with the replacement of my vacuum modulator it shall be fixed [yet to tested].


-justin

Sorry that they aren't the best.. but you should get the just. If you don't, I can put a little more effort into it.





This picture will vary a little from your car. I have a new vacuum modulator which shall differ from your'*. Your'* will be significantly larger, and a gray in colour, probably with a little rust. But it is in the same spot as mine.






This last picture is kind of like an overall pic, showing where everything is in relation to everything else. It isn't very precise, but it should help you in where to look on everything.


One last thing, your car should have an airbox on it. Mine does not have an airbox nor the accordian tube. So, just keep that in mind.. you will need to remove the accordian tube to really do anything with the TB/IAC/induction system.


-justin