Hey all...

Well I'm finally at a point in my life that I can finicially afford two cars. I'm taking my 91 SSE Bonneville and turning into my summer ride / project car.

But I'm having a few issues with it that I was hoping that some of you guru'* might be able to answer.

Hrm.. where to start... ah I suppose safety first.

The seatbelts in the back (shoulder) are almost always "locked". It'* been like that for around 6 months now. Doesn't really bother me because I'm never in the back, but guests really don't like it. Often times they have to "fiddle" with the belts inorder to get them to pull out at all. Sometimes it takes a 5mins or so before the belt will unlock far enough for someone to put it on. It'* almost like it'* in child safety mode all the time. It doesn't matter if the car is on/off, park/drive, brake on/off. 90% of the time the belts are locked. The front two belts are fine btw.

Second, sometimes when I open a door (espically front passanger) my DIC doesn't warn me that a door is open. The dome lights come on to show that a door is open, but the DIC can take up to a minute to "realize" that it'* ajar.

Third, before I purchased the car, my father had the gas tank replaced. He said it wasn't a "official" Bonneville tank. Ever since, the fuel gague has almost been useless. If I've got under 50% fuel in her, and take a hard right turn, if I don't ease up on the gas, she'll stall out. Also, on that note, during any hard turning she seems to lose RPMs even if the gas is all the way down, until she straightens out again. Fuel Pump maybe? When my low fuel warning comes on I only have maybe 5mins to 10mins worth of fuel left, by that time that car almost stalls out at any turn, so I'm forced to fuel up anytime my car goes to what I would guess would be around 1/3 of a tank left. My fuel gague tends to leap up and down as much as 1/2 a tank when I drive (even when I drive normal, no crazy turns).

Fourth, locks. It hasn't happened much since the warm weather (above zero) has arrived, but every so often the power locks don't work. I get a click/buzzing sound from the glove compartment when I try the power locks (remote or door), and the locks won't unlock or lock. I can however still go around and lock all the doors manually. If I wait 5mins or so and try the power locks again they will work.

I've got a few other minor issues, but I figured I'd start with those.. Any help/suggestions would be appricated. Thanks

Last winter was really hard on Bonnie, this winter coming I've got a nice warm garage to store her in. She doesn't deserve another harsh canadian winter.

My cheap Quad Coupe ION will have to deal with the snow/salt/cold of the next few winters. hehe

1) You might need to take the seat belts apart the mechanism has a piece that shift forward when you put your foot on the break. These might be rusted or stuck.

2) I would check the computer connections for any corrosion, moisture or loose connections.

3) The tank might be "official" but it sound like the fuel pump was a replacement. The replacement fuel pumps that I encountered at Autozone was shorter that the stock pump and I had the same problems with my 88 LE I ended up going to a junk yard and replaceing the whole take and fuel pump with the junk yard one.

4) Locks sound like and electrical problem but the power locks might just be getting old. The car is over 12 years old and them little motors tend to wear out. When you try the power locks do the locks try to move. You sould be able to see the locks moving a little if the motors are working. Check your wiring and go around and get into each locking mechanism and lubricated it.

Don't discount the possibility of moisture or ice for the locks. That happened to a few of us this winter. Get in there and lube 'em up good.

I had that occasional problem with my 89 but I never tracked down the solution. You could hear the relay clicking but the locks didn't move.

that'* exactly what'* happening with the locks....
My first thought was that the locks needed to be lubed, so I tried that. I also thought ice might be the problem as well, but what got me was that they ALWAYS worked when I went to unlock the car after a damn cold night, but if I drove anyplace, and then got out and tried to lock them, the relay would sometimes click, and no power locks. Wait 5mins and they would work.

But again, after a long night of sitting in the driveway, in freezing rain, the locks would ALWAYS unlock for me.

But if I drove anywhere, and would get out and try to lock them, sometimes the relay would "click/buzz" and they wouldn't work. Wait 5mins and they would.

Go figure eh? :?

First off, thanks for the help, and so fast!.
Second, I still need a little more help

Does that require removing the entire back seat? Not sure how-to get the seatbelts apart?

Where are the computer connections located? I've checked the switches at the door, they seem ok (they obviously work because the dome lights come on), so I agree it'* a computer / conntection issue somewhere else.

Can anyone suggest a good replacement fuel pump? Also the fuel tank wasn't official, which is why I think I'm having so many problems with my fuel gague and getting gas to the engine when making hard turn. Anyone know what model/type of tank should be used as a replacement? Anyway I can tell the type I have, by shape, or part # on the tank somewhere under the car?

Well today was really nice outside (29c) so I decided to tackle some "issues" I've been having with my Bonnie.

I didn't make it too far....

I've decided to let the mechanic or dealership fix the following issues:
-seatbelts not working in rear
-fuel tank/pump (gauge not reading proper, stalls in turns)
(I've already had the dealership and a mechanic take a look at the power locks problem, but neither were able to resolve it) :(

I did have some minor success with the DIC and the doors, well maybe..
I decided to gease up the hinges on the doors, and noticed that 2 of four weren't being picked up as "open" by the DIC. I left all 4 doors open while I greased the hinges, and as I did the doors, the DIC beeped and picked them up.
I closed all the doors, and decided to try to remove some of the rattles form my LP/trunk due to my stereo system (on-going battle).

I tried the doors after an hour or two and they weren't working again. I found if you left them open for a min or so, then the DIC would pick them up. I also discovered that the plastic/metal pin/button that turns the dome lights on when a door is open is not what triggers the DIC from detecting an open door. EG I close all doors and open the drivers door, the DIC picks up the open door and the dome lights come on. I press the button/ switch located near the door hinges and the dome lights go out, but the DIC still knows the door is open Does anyone know how the DIC detects an open door?

Two other issues I'm having with the car, that I didn't already post are the following:
-power mirrors
-Electronic Climate Control

The power mirrors both just stopped working one day. I checked the fuse and it'* ok, and I doubt both motors died at once. So I suspect it'* just the switch in the drivers door.

The ECC is a bit more tricky. First off, there is hardly any air coming from the vents even with the AC on full power. It'* nothing more then a very very slight breeze. I had the fan replaced last year, because it was squeeking really bad, and the new one is doing the same thing now. The heater works ok, and the heat flows from the floor vents ok. Second issue with the ECC is the internal temp. If I set the temp to anything but 31c it will blow hot/warm air for around 5 to 10mins from the floor vents, and then switch to the dash vents and emit really cold air (I say emit because it doesn't really blow the air). Except for 16c which will just emit cold car from the dash vents.

IE, I start the car and set the internal temp to 24c. After a min or two, the floor vents are blowing warm air. After 5 to 10mins, it'* really warm in the car, and the dash vents start to emit cold air (the warm air stops). After a 1/2hr or so of cold, it starts to get pretty bad because you notice your hands are freezing. If you up the temp by 1 degree, the floor vents start with the warm air again, for around 5/10mins.

I'm suspecting it'* either the ECC computer, or maybe the internal temp sensor(*). Does anyone know where the internal temp sensor(*) are located? Or how much they cost?
Does anyone know if the dealership has any diagnostic equipment to test the ECC computer to see if it'* working properly or not? :?:

Thanks again

There are ways to do a diagnostic on the climate control, but it'* too complicated to explain in a message. But you should be able to retrieve the codes... I've only tried the procedure in Techinfo on a 93 and 94, but I bet it will work on yours too. Try it and see if you can get any trouble codes.

You have to hold the off and warm buttons for a few seconds.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=45

Your low flow, if not caused by your blower motor or other electrical problem, is likely caused by a clogged evaporator. It can be cleaned with brake parts cleaner and then rinsed. I've never done it myself, but someone else should be able to help.

My service manual says the door ajar sensors are in the door lock/latch assembly. Either the wiring to the connector or the connector itself is loose or corroded or the lock/latch assembly has to be replaced.