Squeak
04-17-2005, 03:59 PM
#11
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just thought I would make a little video. You have to listen carefully as the exhaust and wind kinda drown it out a little. 
. Turning down any bass or listening on headphones seems to help.
http://members.shaw.ca/bonneville01/squeak.wmv
It seems that it rarely does it in reverse, and it'll be quiet for about 20-30 seconds after coming out of park. I just realized I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 100 lbs-ft, so I am going to have to borrow one.
So, does that video bring anything else to mind?
Thanks.
. Turning down any bass or listening on headphones seems to help.http://members.shaw.ca/bonneville01/squeak.wmv
It seems that it rarely does it in reverse, and it'll be quiet for about 20-30 seconds after coming out of park. I just realized I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 100 lbs-ft, so I am going to have to borrow one.
So, does that video bring anything else to mind?
Thanks.
04-17-2005, 04:21 PM
#13
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Farmington, Minnesota =MWBF '05 SURVIVOR= =CEBF '06 SURVIVOR= =August '06 COTM=
Posts: 9,130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That sounds to me like the brake wear indicators on the pads. If not then maybe you have some dust or dirt stuck between the pad and rotor causing it to do that. I suggest taking the calipers off and shootiung the pads and rotors with some brake cleaner and checking to see if the dust shieldsto make sure something didn't tag them and make them get close enough to the rotors to touch them.
04-17-2005, 04:33 PM
#14
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Will the brake wear indicators still make sound even if my foot isn't on the brake? Anyway, I'll give the above mentioned things a try when it isn't so windy out (I don't like jacking the car up when the wind is gusting to 70+km/h). Keep in mind this will be my first venture into the brake department, so there may be some stupid questions to come.
ps - whats so good about my squeak video?
ps - whats so good about my squeak video?
04-17-2005, 05:58 PM
#15
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Three Oaks, Michigan
Posts: 4,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That'* weird.. I hear it, but it doesn't sound like the wear indicator. It sounds more like something dragging. I definitely vote taking the caliper off and cleaning the **** out of the front brakes. Compare driver'* side from passenger'* side. If the pads look remotely close to being done, replace them with some quality units. Also check your rotor'* diameter all around [1" apart upon measuring] make sure it isn't out of round. Also check it with a straight-edge [I recommend a high quality metal ruler.. those seem to be the straightest thing I have] for out-of-round-ness. When you put the wheels back on, torque 'em down to 100 ft lbs. If your torque wrench doesn't go up to 100ft lbs, get a new one. You sure it doesn't? Haven't seen many do under 100.
Bleed your brakes while you are at it, too. Good practice, and unless you did them, and know they are good [within ~6mo], it'* just one of those things you do [at least, I do].
-justin
Bleed your brakes while you are at it, too. Good practice, and unless you did them, and know they are good [within ~6mo], it'* just one of those things you do [at least, I do].
-justin
04-17-2005, 07:06 PM
#16
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like a plan. I won't be able to start for a week or two (need some money for different things). Now is it ok to drive the car like this (the stopping power is fine), it won't cause any damage?
Also, will I need any special tools besides a clamp/pliers to compress the piston? My torque wrench is a cheesy old school one with a needle that moves when you turn it, it doesn't ratchet either. It only goes up to 50ft-lbs.
I've now noticed at higher speeds it evolves from a squeak to a sort of wooshing/rubbing sound, still consistant with the rotation of the tire.
Also, will I need any special tools besides a clamp/pliers to compress the piston? My torque wrench is a cheesy old school one with a needle that moves when you turn it, it doesn't ratchet either. It only goes up to 50ft-lbs.
I've now noticed at higher speeds it evolves from a squeak to a sort of wooshing/rubbing sound, still consistant with the rotation of the tire.
04-17-2005, 07:46 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
First I'm wondering what kind of pads are on the car... Evidentally there is no way they can be original...
It almost sounds as if the pads are hard spotted... You'll have to see if the pads are chewing at the rotors..
When you get to it,
1) remove the caliper,and pads, rotors as well so you can inspect both sides..( Before you do all of this make sure you pump the brakes with the car off 10-15 times to relieve the pressure in the system<---- I think this is what needs to be done, Maybe we can get a gearhead to answer here)
2) if the rotors are in decent shape( no serious grooves, nice and smooth ) and the pads still have a decent amount of meat and are wearing evenly, Then I will tell you to actually sand the pads down a bit, enough to break the glaze off the pad and make them look Dull again... Do the same with the rotors...
Now if the rotors are grooved, toss them and get new rotors and pads.. Rotors for the older bonnies are cheap.. Get some decent pads... I have Delco'* on my 91( they are costly )... I have Bendix Titaniums on my 95 and they have been a good pad.. Make sure you clean and lube the caliper pins( silicone brake lube )
3)You can use a C Clamp to push the caliper back in, but you need to be slow with it, don't go fast in any manner as damage to the system can be the result..
4) After you have cleaned the rotors( Brake cleaner ) install them on the car, after you clean and reinstall the pin into the caliper install the pads and then install the caliper pad assembly...
5) before you go anywhere, make sure the system is pumped up...
Let a few others answer here tho as they know more about the Bosch brake system... Good Luck
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
It almost sounds as if the pads are hard spotted... You'll have to see if the pads are chewing at the rotors..
When you get to it,
1) remove the caliper,and pads, rotors as well so you can inspect both sides..( Before you do all of this make sure you pump the brakes with the car off 10-15 times to relieve the pressure in the system<---- I think this is what needs to be done, Maybe we can get a gearhead to answer here)
2) if the rotors are in decent shape( no serious grooves, nice and smooth ) and the pads still have a decent amount of meat and are wearing evenly, Then I will tell you to actually sand the pads down a bit, enough to break the glaze off the pad and make them look Dull again... Do the same with the rotors...
Now if the rotors are grooved, toss them and get new rotors and pads.. Rotors for the older bonnies are cheap.. Get some decent pads... I have Delco'* on my 91( they are costly )... I have Bendix Titaniums on my 95 and they have been a good pad.. Make sure you clean and lube the caliper pins( silicone brake lube )
3)You can use a C Clamp to push the caliper back in, but you need to be slow with it, don't go fast in any manner as damage to the system can be the result..
4) After you have cleaned the rotors( Brake cleaner ) install them on the car, after you clean and reinstall the pin into the caliper install the pads and then install the caliper pad assembly...
5) before you go anywhere, make sure the system is pumped up...
Let a few others answer here tho as they know more about the Bosch brake system... Good Luck
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
04-17-2005, 09:24 PM
#18
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Three Oaks, Michigan
Posts: 4,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bosch brake system? Geeze dude.. it'* Teves 
.
Anyways.. it'* safe to drive if the brakes are good, but you COULD [in theory] cause more damage. However, if this noise is from damage, all it will do is make it worse.. so if it needed replacing then, it will still need replacing. You should be alright, but personally I don't like to **** around with brakes.. especially after experiencing what it can be like with poor brakes. You'll never underestimate the power of your brakes.
Jr's3800 is right.. I forgot to add, it is always good to de-pressurize the brakes before doing any work on them. They are electronically pressurized, and will only pressurize with the ignition on. If you want to have the ignition on while doing this, there are two fuses you can pull [just read the description on the fuse panel cover.. it'* there.. remember there are two of 'em]. Then press the brake pedal 10-20 times [or until it is HARD.. imagine driving like that.. yeah, you will think twice after experiencing that]. Anyways.. you have another car you can go run and get parts for? Just pull the front tires, and clean everything up. Jr's3800 did a good job at explaining what to do with the pads/rotors, so just follow those. Chances are, you will only have to sand everything down [rotary sander is best.. vibrating is NOT good, and hand sanding is alright.. 150-200grit seems to be the sweet spot. Try sanding in circles {hence the rotary sander being best}].
Haven't messed with the brakes [mechanically at least], so I can't give any tips on that.
-justin
.Anyways.. it'* safe to drive if the brakes are good, but you COULD [in theory] cause more damage. However, if this noise is from damage, all it will do is make it worse.. so if it needed replacing then, it will still need replacing. You should be alright, but personally I don't like to **** around with brakes.. especially after experiencing what it can be like with poor brakes. You'll never underestimate the power of your brakes.
Jr's3800 is right.. I forgot to add, it is always good to de-pressurize the brakes before doing any work on them. They are electronically pressurized, and will only pressurize with the ignition on. If you want to have the ignition on while doing this, there are two fuses you can pull [just read the description on the fuse panel cover.. it'* there.. remember there are two of 'em]. Then press the brake pedal 10-20 times [or until it is HARD.. imagine driving like that.. yeah, you will think twice after experiencing that]. Anyways.. you have another car you can go run and get parts for? Just pull the front tires, and clean everything up. Jr's3800 did a good job at explaining what to do with the pads/rotors, so just follow those. Chances are, you will only have to sand everything down [rotary sander is best.. vibrating is NOT good, and hand sanding is alright.. 150-200grit seems to be the sweet spot. Try sanding in circles {hence the rotary sander being best}].
Haven't messed with the brakes [mechanically at least], so I can't give any tips on that.
-justin
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post