Well as some may know I have had starting issues with the new engine. I had changed the fuel rail along with injectors to my old one ( from the blown engine) and it didn't help. So I figured I would try the ICM. That brought the starting issue under control and was back to normal, but I found that the old injectors were loud and to me it seemed like it lost a bit of power with the old injectors ( the do have just over 200,000 kms on them).


I also changed my knock sensor ( which was throwing codes) and I also changed the plugs to TR55'*. I didn't run the car after each item changed since I wanted the engine to stay cool.

well I started it up after all was done and of course it turned over a few times since I had the fuel rail off.

I went for a test ride to make sure all was well, ( got the mail, and went for coffee and to see Renée at the construction site, they are doing road repairs and she is one of the workers). When I started the car after getting the mail it was fine.

I let the car sit for a bit after all that and I decided to go play ( webcam, laptop, electrical tape, and the car, yes I have video). When I went to start it, it was back to the hard start issue.

I went for a 20 min ride, and let it sit for a few minutes after, then tried again.

Hard start is back, BUT the car has great power, I have no clue if it is the injectors that are the problem. Any clue??

I will have to get the fuel pressure tested to see if it is the regulator. I just don't want to have to change the injectors once again. Could heat be causing a problem? I mean it is only about 44 F outside today.

Mike..when you say hard start...can you please describe what it'* doing..turning over slow..just not wanting to start..??

Thanks

Well basically what it is doing is turning over fine, just turning over alot before it actually starts. So it is long cranking.

I was out tearing down the old engine and figured I would try it again, since it sat for about 2 hours. Same thing, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, then starts. Also it seems to sputter once started, I am thinking that maybe a few cylinders got too much gas so that is why it sputters, but that is just a thought.


I went for a ride and it has great power. I even ran it in 1st right up close to the limiter ( gradual increase) to see if there was any kind of miss ( fuel related) and nothing, it was nice and smooth.


I guess tomorrow I will swap the injectors again and see what is going on.

My 2 cents says it is the fuel pump relay. Is only used when starting to give the rail pressure before the oil pressure interlock connects.

When cranking go until the oil pressure stats to climb, turn key off and wait a second. Then try starting. Bet it starts right away.

That is very possible, reason I was thinking something of the sort is that my buddy has a Jeep, and it is designed to crank and not start till there is oil pressure.

So you think that just the relay needs to be changed? I know that when I turn the key on, I hear the relay kick on, fuel pump kick on, then relay kick off.

Seeing how easy it is to change the fuel injectors I may do that.

Where is the relay located anyhow?? I may have moved a wire to loose contact when I did the plugs ( if the relay is located on the firewall above the accumulator).

" I know that when I turn the key on, I hear the relay kick on, fuel pump kick on, then relay kick off" Good indicator the pump and relay are working. Next step is to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

Theres a TSB on our cars for long crank times due to a defective IAC valve.
I would change it with your other one and see if that solves it.
Don't remember but if you take it out and has a green spring if its good or bad.

Well I am using the same TB on this engine as the old one. Where is the valve located anyhow. I started it this morning and it was half a crank and still had a bit of a sputter, but nothing major.

Drove it around to get it up to temp and then tried it again and was fine. BUT I gave it an hour or so to sit after driving it and it was back to the long crank. I was going to change the injectors back to the old ones today to see if it was that, but since it started fine I figured I would leave it.

I took a couple of vids but will post them later.

Standing at the DS fender the IAC is just to the lower right of the throttle body.
You can take it out and clean it. (two screws and a connector.

I'm curious as to the solution to your problem sse1990, since I'm having a similar problem. Tell me if it'* the same?
When the car is cold ( hasn't been running for a couple of hours ) it cranks for approximately 15 to 20 seconds before it even attempts to start if it does at all.
When you try to start it the second time, it starts within 5 seconds.
When the car is warm, it starts up within the first 5 seconds everytime.

Is this the same problem your having?

Frank