AAAARRRRRHHHGGGGG

Ok so the car is at the dealer to get that wonky start up fixed. Ya, they called me up to tell me 'Oh the car started fine this morning...nothings wrong"

Seth, Pete, I need to to vouch for me here...you heard my car trying to start....something is definitely wrong, well according to GM,..nothing is wrong.

All I know thus far, its that when they started the car up this morning, it fired up fine. Whenever I, or anyone else does it, its struggles like an old bag. Anyway, they brought it in, assuming it was the fuel pump. The pump however is nice and primed. So, they let it sit. I called back about 1/2 ago. They were about to fire it up and have another look.

:?

If nothing else is wrong, I'll go pick it up and take it somewhere else at a later date. They haven't even looked at the wonky turn signal. I replaced the relay yesterday, but the left turn signal on the cluster stays on and the light in the bumper refuses to intensify like its supposed to.

Gremlins I guess

a) intermittants are the hardest to find.
b) once had a dealer tell me the oil pressure was fine, guage was wrong with two cam bearing sitting in the bottom of the pan.
c) if temp related, I'd suspect the ESC beore the crank sensor - latter is just a coil and magnets, ESC is full of electronic thingies.

Five years ago my wife took the '90 which had never seen temperature below 30F to visit her father. In January. In Indiana. Where it sat out at -20F.

About a week later she called to say the oil light was on at idle but went out when driving.

Figured it was the sender so brought one with me to bring home a week later. No difference. Took to dealer. That afternoon said it was fine and the guage was bad. Changed oil & filter to feel better & drove home, 1,000 miles at 2000 plus rpm cruise and normal on-ramp excursions above. Ran perfectly except for neutral/1200 rpm at stoplights to keep light off.

Got home reading 19 psi at 2000 rpm warmed up. Put real guage on. 19 psi. Pulled pan & found remnants of both center cam bearings in pan. Figured it was fired up one frosty morning and spun both.

Decided not to take chance on repetition in case it was a machining problem (once rebuilt a VW hree times because the line bore got the center main .002 off center - every time it would drop below freezing the engine would start, run 30 seconds, and freeze) so bought a replacement supposaidly out of a 90 with 36000 miles. Has been running fine for five years. Still have the block in my back garage.

I'm begining to think gremlins are a standard feature on ALL Bonnevilles, and I think Jim would agree with me.

Short Story.... last night, DIC reports brake light out. Get out of the car, sure enough, one of the 3 lights on the drivers side is out. No biggie. DIC reports all night that the brake light is out. Driving home, notice DIC now not reporting a brake light out, BUT!!!! both front fog light (ie my main driving lights due to my covers) are out. Both blubs blown!!
Damn gremlin moved from my tail lights to my front lights in an evening... they sure do more fast

Getting back to the topic of Jim'* post.... it'* a classic... 5 step process.

Step 1 - Car doesn't work right
Step 2 - Bring car to mechanic
Step 3 - Car works fine for mechanic
Step 4 - Pay mechanic, bring car home
Step 5 - See Step 1

My car stalled in reverse at low speed on Saturday. No reason for it, and it started right up again. Hasn't happened since.

I thik I may look for a new ECM for the hell of it. How much are those things anyway?

We'll see what they can come up with tomorrow.

89.99 w/ $100 core, about what a month ago? anyway at auto zone for the 87

Dealer called..they could find nothing wrong. :?

Might be time for a new ECM...I dunno. I'm out of answers