work and scholl and my daughter has to go to school as well..

o.k this is what happened so far.. my car started puttering like it was low on fuel but i had 1/4 of a tank of gas and my low fuel light did not even come on.. it did this for 6 blocks and just cut off.. i honestly thought it was out of gas so i walked to the gas station and bought a container and filled it with 3 gallons of gas. put in in the car and it turned over but died right away every time..so i had my wife unplug the maf for me as soon as the car would start and if would stay runni ng for about 6 seconds every time she unpluged it.. so i gave up and pushed the car 12 blocks home..
so then i check the fuel rail and nothing ( no pressure no air no fuel ) so i change the fuel filter and try to start it.. my battery was dead.. so i call a friend to give me a jump start. he came we hooked the cables up and waited 10 minutes.. and nothing no start... not even an attemnpt.. so i hook up he code scanner and get code 34..

Code 34
3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes

MAF Sensor Check for loose or damaged air duct, misadjusted minimum idle speed and vacuum leaks. &Inspect the MAF sensor and the electrical connections


now i am also getting a code 44 with the code 34..
code 44 --- lean exhaust..


now i am no mechanic but last time i asked about code 44 i was told to check for a vacuum leak.. and now the code 34 also says to check for a vacuum leak...

could a vacuum leak stop my car from starting at all..?

also keep in mind i have no fuel at the fuel rail. no air comes out either..

someone please help me as this is my only car right now as the 95 is getting painted....

and the car is stuck in my garage so i need to try and figure this out myself as i cant afford a tow to a shop....

Only thing that comes to mind is fuel pump. Wild shot...

Fuel pump was my first thought as well.
Can you hear the fuel pump cycle when you first turn on the key?
Has the fuel pump ever been changed?
How old is the O2 sensor?
How old are the vacuum hoses? Are you sure there are no vacuum leaks:?:

If there is a vacuum leak between the MAF and the engine, the computer gets anti-social and doesn't play well with the other electronic kiddies under the hood. I has to be clamped securely to the throttle body and it'* associated tubing. I don't know for sure if that will keep it from starting, but I do know for a fact that a vacuum leak will torpedo your fuel mileage.

i honestly cant tell you if i hear the fuel pump cycle.. i have to check on that one..

not sure about the fuel pump being changed, but i highly doubt it has. car looks original.

02 sensor is about 9-10 months old it is a denso aslo.. so i think its good..

vacuum hoses are probally original, im most positive of this.. and im pretty sure i have a leak but dont no how to check. and now i cant get it to a shop because it wont start.. its in my garage....

is there any way for me to check for a vacuum leak.. .?

and if it is the fuel pump, would the whole gas tank have to be removed to get to it and change it.. is this where it gets very expensive.........??

Yes, the tank has to be dropped. You should have someone turn the key on while you are standing by the rear tire and listen for the pump to come on. If you hear it then it is probably ok. If not then try jumping the pump. My FSM pointed me to a green connector by the battery that is not plugged into anything. This is a direct "hotwire" to the pump. If the pump then comes on then you have a relay/ power problem. If not then plan on doing the pump change like I did.

As far as vacuum goes, there are several small rubber hoses that are used to connect plastic or metal vacuum lines througout the engine bay. Most are on the driverside of the motor.

Just look over the motor and if you see any rubber lines, check them for age. Rub them and if black soot comes off on your fingers, then the line is bad. If it feels, crumbly, its bad. If it has lots of cracks, then its bad. A foot of hose from just about any parts store is cheap and should be enough to swap out all the old lines.

Be careful about the lines near the vacuum box on the firewall as the fittings are very prone to breaking. Age has a bad habit of making them brittle...

If the vacuum isn't your problem, then I would think its the fuel pump. If you're getting zero fuel to the line then the pump is probably dead. You could have blown a fuse (located behind the glovebox on the PS) but thats unlikely. Also, I belive a faulty fuel pressure regulator would still allow the flow of fuel, but just at wrong pressures but you have zero fuel to flow in the first place.

If you have to change the pump, you will have to drop the tank. The only things that hold it up are the two straps (one bolt each), a fuel feed line from the filler on the quarter panel, an electrical harness to the pump, and feed and return fuel lines. Its pretty common for the fuel feed and return lines from the fuel filter back to the pump to get rotted so now would be a good time to replace them and the filter while the tank is out.

Vacuum leaks are easy to find when the car is running.
If the car isn't running, there is no vacuum to leak.
Best thing to do is troubleshoot the no-fuel situation first and get it running.

Once you get it running or even in the meantime while it is just sitting there you can visually inspect the vacuum hoses for cracks, splits, and general deterioration. This involves a hands-on effort to touch and view each piece of vacuum hose individually. If it crumbles when you touch it or leaves a black chalky residue on your hands, it needs to be replaced. Because if it leaves that residue on your hands, it is doing just as bad or worse to a vacuum diaphragm. or clogging a vacuum orifice.
There are several rubber ninety degree elbows that seem to split most often right where they bend. You really just have to get in there and look. Take them off one at a time so you remember where they go.
If there are vacuum hoses missing, it is often better to cap the holes than to hook stuff up wrong.

yes it does untill my battery starting dieng from all the trying to start it it..


it tryied to start but it would shut off right away... it did this for about 30-40 tries of tring to start it then it started killing the battery and then i noticed i had no fuel in the rail.

[quote="If not then try jumping the pump. My FSM pointed me to a green connector by the battery that is not plugged into anything. This is a direct "hotwire" to the pump. If the pump then comes on then you have a relay/ power problem. If not then plan on doing the pump change like I did.[/quote]

i see a lil green clip by my battery right by the horns.. and its not pluged into anything.. would i have to cut the clip off to expose the bare wire and then connect the hot wire from the fuel pump directly to the cars battery.?



also i have tried for another 40 minutes this morning and i accomplished nothing but killing my battery again...

and it sounds like it wants to kick over but it dont..


and ( jrs3800 ) i here a funny humming noise when i stick my head by the back drivers side tire and try to start the car.. but im not sure if thats the power ant or what...