Well tonight I finally got a chance to drive the car ( the other half never lets me touch it anymore). Anyhow, since I installed the new engine it was having a strange starting problem. it would crank over for about 5 seconds before starting. Once started it would sputter for a few seconds then it was fine.

Tonight I figured I would start it more like an old carb vehicle, so while I was cranking it over, I feathered the gas a bit, and it fired right up. I tired it twice after that ( same process) since we were doing a bit of running around and it worked.


My question now is how can feathering the gas pedal help to get it started faster, is it the fact that it is getting more air or more fuel. It did the same thing with the current fuel rail and injectors and when I tried the old fuel rail and injectors from my blown engine.

Once it is started it runs fine.


WTF can it be now?

I agree with Don, by pressing the pedal you are also giving it more fuel. If you have the ability, check the fuel pressure.

Makes me wonder if the fuel pump is giving enough prime to start up.

(Sorry...I didn't say your fuel pump might be weak)

The problem only started with the new engine. I tired the 2 fuel rails ( the one from the old car that was running fine) and the one that came on the engine. I did have to use my TB since it was not on the new engine. I don't think it is a fuel issue since if you let it start like to normally does ( long cranking) then once it starts it sputters like it was flooded and if you give it gas to bring up the RPM'* there is a definite miss like it is flooded and it clears up pretty quick.

So now that I have discovered this, ( using the pedal) I am thinking it is not fuel but possibly air or something else.

Oh yeah, one other thing. It seems ( before it started getting really cold out) that the first start up of the morning was normal, but every other start later in the day was hard to start it.

Please keep us up to speed on what you do find.. (My truck is doing the same)

I agree 100% with the IAC diagnosis. It'* the obvious logical answer, considering that when you feathered the throttle, it started.

But it'* so damn cold out now, figures I will have to be playing with the car in the cold, lol.


How hard is it to access the IAC on that motor anyhow? I don't have the car with me to run out and check.

What should I use to clean it also?

It'* pretty easy to clean it, i know i just used a crecent wrench on mine to get it out. Course mine was an LG3 not an LN3 so yours might be slightly different. Just use a can of carb cleaner and and blast the hell out of it, and tough stuff you might have to use maybe a toothbrush or something (the carb cleaner loosens it a lot).

LN3 has two phillips head screws. LG3 turns the entire IAC, but it'* the same other than that. You have to pull the accordian tube to get to it, but I believe that'* all that is in the way. It'* super easy. Just pull it off and clean it with some carb cleaner and a rag or paper towel. Also spray some in the hole the IAC is located in, and wipe it out as best you can.

I don't know the details on your engine and how much you did of the swap, but to clean it any further [IE cleaning the entire TB and/or the IAC passage completely, you must remove the TB, which requires you to drain the coolant. Just try the above, and remove the MAF screen and wipe down the TB as best you can too. Even if it isn't perfect, every bit helps.

Also, since the MAF sensor is real easy to get to also [3 screws, and no things to remove to get to it], clean that up with some isopropyl alcohol [rubbing alcohol] and a q-tip. I used 99% ISO, but i'm sure the 70% will be just as effective. You'll know when it'* clean too.