Ok OSG, I got impatient and started a thread for you.

You've already ripped the top half of the motor off so many times you don't need us to tell you too much detail. Look at the motor and say to yourself. What needs to be disconnected. Electrical, cooling, fuel and vacuum.

Take off hood with a couple of friends. Three people is the best way. Saves the windshield every time. (TIP:before you unbolt hood, remove the hood light..)

You're quickest way to unhook all the wiring will be to disconnect it at the firewall. I've never done it this way before the Frank swap but it makes sense. You don't need to disconnect each and every item, just one and the power to the starter.

Disconnect the A/C compressor from the mounts (DO NOT DISCHARGE) and support it out of the way.

Pull the radiator and fans to give yourself tons of room in the front. It wouldn't be pretty to mash it by mistake.

Check for vacuum lines that can't go with the motor (for example, disconnect the line to your vacuum tank) I figure you know these well.

Fuel..hmm again, you already know them.

Then the motor and tranny mounts get lowered with the motor into the cradle to be hooked up, so look for the studs w/nuts on them, remove those nuts. Disconnect the gear selector linkage and anything else you see connected to motor or tranny that needs unhooking for the motor tranny to come out as one piece.

I have something to add... dont try it. Lol just kidding. But if you really want to attempt this be prepared for things to go wrong. I know you want to pull the entire engine which is the best for your case, as you know i dropped the subframe on mine. But i realize the facilties don't really allow that where you are. Anyways good luck man, you'll need it.

tip #3...

use a digital camera. and a video camera if you have it.

it'* funny - when you're taking it apart, you look at something, and you swear it'* seared to your memory, so you don't bother writing it down, or taking enough pictures of it.

and then you go to put it back together, and think - holy crap - I know there'* something special I need to do here, but I can't remember what!

tip #4...

with the particular body style and age of your bonnie, it'* probably cheaper to buy a used one than to try to rebuild your tranny...

tip #5...

if you still decide to rebuild your tranny, you need to be carefull - I've seen trannies fail from a strand of cotton so small you could hardly see it - it came off of a cotton glove.

tip #6...

CHECK BALLS. be *carefull* with those suckers. trust me when I say - it really sucks to be going along great with the rebuild, and then you accidentally drop a check ball down into the case, and have to pull everything back out again! really! be careful and patient when you pull the valve body, and when you put it back on. no sense making yourself do the whole job 2 or 3 times.

tip #7...

torque wrench - use a good one, no questions asked. cheapies are not good. bar type (with the pointer at the end) are not good.

always always always prep the torque wrench by clicking it on some bolt (other than the one you're trying to torque) at a lower torque setting, to get the oil moving properly - the first few torques will be far to tight if you don't do that.

tip #8...

don't work alone. seriously. there'* a lot of weight there. even if you just have a weakling friend over to call someone if you have something bad happen...

At least this thread didn't turn into a monster of off-topic discussion.

I don't see anything where to disconnect the entire harness from the firewall.. except the gromet [even though it doesn't really look like one] where it has two bolts on it? Is that what you are talking about? Although I have completely unplugged everything on the car [except oil pressure sending unit and pressure valve] and know where everything goes by heart now, your method sounds a lot easier, considering i'm not doing any engine work.

After several times of reading your last paragraph, I think I understand what you are saying. The motor mounts go with the engine, when it'* pulled, correct? And to get the mounts to do that, I would remove the nuts from the studs?

What about the CV Joints? Or any other suspension components?

Does anyone know how much work space i'll be needing to do this?

mkaake: already gone through the 'ahhhh dammit what am i supposed to do with this thing.' It'* annoying. I know.

I'm also going to assume you didn't see my thread in general, please nobody tell me 'oh get a used one' please please please, it turns into a big argument. There is no discussion on it.

A strand of cotton you say... do you know where it was to make it fail? I think I may be vacuum sealing everything then

Petrollium Jelly on the check balls, just enough to keep them in, no more.

Damn, once again I am looking at another torque wrench.

I've got a lady friend or two to help with pulling the engine. They are stronger than me, actually . What kind of weight are we looking at here? Like how much does the transmission weigh?

One last question, I can put the engine on the floor [wrapped up of course], right? I don't need to buy an engine stand too, or do I?

Ok, the electrical. That connector/grommet with the two bolts on either side....yes it'* the one. Look dead center of the wires and you see a bolt. Loosen that bolt (it stays in the connector) and the whole gromment/connector will disconnect from the harness that is inside the car. (Note orientation of the wires, we er uh put ours on upside down once)

Yes on the motor mounts.

Yes you can put the motor on the floor (everything on the bottom is nice and flat.

CV'* yes..you will need to pop a ball joint on each side and pull the axles out. Also disconnect the tranny cooler lines. There'* other little stuff I'm forgeting but you'll clearly see things are attached.

okay, so the connector'* design is the same type connector as what is on the ICM?

Upside down huh? sheesh...... men

Pop a ball joint eh? Sounds too difficult for me, i think i'll pass on the whole removal .

Tranny cooler lines, imaginary oil cooler lines [i'm supposed to have one, but it is nowhere in sight], cv joints, accordian tube.. and i think that'* like it. there isn't a whole lot attached to my engine. I haven't looked very well, but i'm assuming the Master Cylinder isn't in the way? Because i'm just happy mine works, i'd rather not touch it.

There should be lines coming out of your transmission, at the bottom near the pan I think, for the cooler. My car doesn't have a real cooler, so they just loop around and go into the side tank of the radiator. I assume yours is similar.

Yes, mine are exactly the same. And you must remove the cooling fans to remove them. 1/2" nuts on them, I believe.