A while back, I posted about a code 41. I'd decided to follow jr's3800 advice (that his name?) and buy a new interrupter. Looked at the new one, and decided if i pulled the magnet outta that, i'd be throwing my money away, and whether if falls out again was questionable.

So, I pulled the timing chain cover, and that darn power steering pump kept getting in my way, i nearly yanked it out. lol
I got it off, and had to remove the chain. The old plastic case was brittle, and pretty well was gone. Popped the new one in, lined up my timing marks, stuck the chain on, and then the cover.

Advice for those of you in the future.

1, keep the water upmp off the cover till the cover is back on, makes it easier.
2, beware of that oil pan seal. If may get squashed. If theres no other way, relax! the pan is easily removed and reinstalled, and the seal can be reused. Just make sure you use permatex ultra copper. You don't even need to remove the starter!!
3, When reinstalling the chain, turn the crank, and cam, to make sure the timing marks line up. Never reinstall the chain assuming it will keep its time, it won't! IF the marks don't line up, line em up. Turn in the direction so the engine is spinning clockwise. Make sure they line up right. There will be slack for the tensioner, make sure it is slack when checking. This will ensure a perfect time. Then reinstall the tensioner.

4, oils and synthetics. I know regular oil breaks down materials, like plastic and some metals, such as the material that the magnet is made of. That, along with heat, will reduce the life of that magnet, and casing. So, maybe its a good idea to use synthetics to prolong the life of the engine, and especially that magnet?
IMHO Mobil one makes the best synthetic for the price.
5. Don't use additives, they make the oil run slicker, but is that what the oil and engine were designed for? No. stay away from em. IMHO, if you add the cost of 4 liters of regular oil, plus the additive, you'll find its better to get the synthetic.

6 and last, use an AC Deloc, or WIX filter. FRAM is a NO-NO!!

Input is welcome!

you forgot to mention to be sure to put the pulley on the water pump <not necessarily bolted> before the water pump goes back on. that was a fun one

I forgot to mention to put the pulley for the w/p on? Well, that was the last thing I put on, and if you try putting a serpetine belt on a w/p without a pulley, you are definitly gonna notice. If you don't then your car is best left to a mechanic! lol

When I drove away with my car, with its new engine, the guys forgot to bolt in the w/p pulley right, it fell off, so I had to settle for some different bolts, of same thread, but longer, and different, makes it easy to remove w/p.

i meant you have a hard time putting the pulley on after the pump is bolted on.

I've been through the front cover removal 5 times on my two Bonnevilles, twice for this interupter thing. I left the water pump on the cover, it doesn't get in the way (only the pulley gets in the way). The power steering pump came off, though, and set off to the side. The oil pan only needs to be loosened, it doesn't have to be removed.

I'll agree about the synthetic part, but both of my engines were pre-owned and had conventional petroleum used for years before I got them - synthetic won't undo the deteriotation that has occurred with petroleum. On the other hand, my dad bought an '89 new, put AMSOIL in it at 6k miles, and the interupter had not failed when the car was totalled at 170k 11 years later.