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-   -   Delco Ignition (https://www.gmforum.com/1987-1991-93/delco-ignition-211220/)

captainmiller 01-05-2005 02:17 PM

Delco Ignition
 
Hey,

I've seriously considering undertaking the Delco ignition swap due to the crappy performance of what I've got now. It doesn't/barely starts when it's wet out, and I just have to spend too much time on the starter on a daily basis. When it does have trouble starting up I have that jumpy tach as was described in another thread.

I'm not going to pretend I know how to do this, because I don't. I really only know the basics when it comes to cars, but usually with some good instructions I can get things done. I was wondering first of all if it would be plausable for a person in my position to be able to do this myself. I won't be offended if the answer is hell no. :D

First things first, exactly what parts should I be getting from what car. I have an 89 SSE, heres my VIN # if it helps at all "1G2HY51C5KW252042"

From reading other threads it looks like there are different versions or something of the engines I should be getting the parts from.

Anyway, this is what I think I know about the process.

I am going to end up taking that off, which I think is called the ignition module? And then, mount some new bracket/mounting plate, and replace the coil packs (I don't know what they look like or where they are.)
http://members.shaw.ca/bonneville01/enginebig.jpg

Anyhoo, if anyone thinks that I can get through this, or if they want to laugh at me just give me your thoughts. :D What can I say, I'm a computer tech not a mechanic.

I know I've asked a mouthful, so thanks for taking your time reading it. :)
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theJMFC 01-05-2005 02:56 PM

Yes, you can do this (assuming that you're not a complete moron, and that you can indeed follow simple instructions or use common sense). I just did this a couple of days ago, and took lots of pictures for the purpose of posting the procedure on here. I wasn't planning on doing that today, but.. whatever.

EDIT: I went ahead and just put all of this information on my website, which involved moving the pictures from this post... Rather than update this post with all of the new picture locations, I'll just add this link to the writeup on my site:

http://www.thejmfc.com/autos/delcoignition.html

Another useful resourse is Padgett's site: www.6007.us

It's not that hard to do. I think it's worth it. Just make sure you do it right. Don't cobble it together without the bottom bracket or anything like that. Good luck!

Oh, and while you're at it, you should really install a strut tower brace from a '92-'99 h-body. It makes far more of a difference than the ignition ever will, and is also cheap from a junkyard! That's the first upgrade I would do to any '87-91. It's almost mandatory, really. :wink:

opensourceguy 01-05-2005 04:16 PM

I did the swap, by enlarging the holes in the ICM, and mounting it a little off center. Perfect, no. But it was cheaper ;).


-justin

captainmiller 01-05-2005 04:38 PM

Thanks for the beautiful guide! I am now almost 100% confident with doing this project. Also, I found this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

It looks to be perfect for me. It's from a '92 Bonne, and it has the ignition module attached to it. Since the unit is assembled, I would assume it has the mounting plate on the bottom and the screws, although if it doesn't they should be easy enough to get. So, would you say this looks like a good buy?

Also, about the strut tower bar. I've seen those before and always wondered what exactly it does. I understand that it is a bar that is attached from the top of one strut tower to the other, but what purpose does it serve and what will it make better? Also to install one on a 89, I take it you would have to drill holes in the strut tower or something to bolt it down?

Thanks a bunch. The guide is awesome, it should be featured in the techinfo part of this site.

opensourceguy 01-05-2005 07:33 PM

That would work for the coil pack itself, however you would still need that bracket JMFC mentioned, or like what I suggested to enlarge the mounting holes.

The STB [Strut Tower Bar], is used to stiffen the front end, to help prevent body roll. It mounted right up to the bolts sitting on the strut tower, and you have everything required, minus the STB. You can get an STB from any 92+ bonnie, I believe on the SSE/SSEi had them, but I don't know for sure.

Yes, I will agree with you, that was a great guide.


-justin

theJMFC 01-06-2005 01:11 AM

Miller, The part on ebay looks like what you need (though perhaps missing the plate, not sure, looks like the coils are screwed down, and they can only screw to the plate). That said, I'll bet it gets expensive before the auction ends. I saw complete assemblies go for $30 + $10 shipping. I ended up looking for separate pieces and paid a grand total of $26.50, shipped. I'm not saying not to bid on it, just don't go crazy. There are always coils and ICMs on ebay, so it's not like the last one you'll see for a month or anything. You also might watch the "for sale or trade" secton of this very forum, for cars being parted out.

For what that metal plate would cost you, even separately, I would NOT recommend drilling a perfectly good ICM, and mounting your ICM and coils crooked directly to the engine bracket. Not to step on any toes or anything - I just don't think that's a good idea.

The STB: No, you don't have to drill any holes. You simply remove the two nuts and metal spacer thingy from the top of the strut tower (be careful with those removed, don't lean on your car or anything, you might change your camber or something), and then install the STB and reinstall the nuts. I know someone on here has the torque specs for that... I think it's like 14 ft-lb. If you decide to do this, I can try to find out that that is for sure.

The reason that our cars need this (while some cars don't) is that they are very flexible up front. Before I had mine, I would hit a pothole every night on the way home from work, and the car would make painful flexing noises. With it on, the difference was huge, the pothole became just a dull thud. Handling is better too, but just the fact that the car isn't flexing constantly is worth it.

<peer pressure> Do it man, DO IT!!</peer pressure> :wink:

captainmiller 01-06-2005 09:23 AM

Oh, I will do the strut bar thing when I get some time. Sounds like it's really worth it.

Anyway, about the Delco ignition, someone I know in the states says he has a wrecked newer wrecked Grand Am, and he say it has a 3800. Do the Grand Am's have 3800's? I was a bit skeptical about this, and I do not know the year of the car. If it is a 3800 I may take the coils and ICM from it, but if it is post-94 it will be a series II and the metal plate won't be any good to me.

thanks!

BonneMeMN 01-06-2005 12:57 PM

The Strut bar keeps the top of the strut towers from flexing in and out when turning, etc. Think of the front end being a box, instead of U shaped. With the Bar, you made need a new brake fluid resevior.

theJMFC 01-06-2005 02:20 PM

I don't think he'll need a new brake fluid res. It looks like his cap is far enough back, and his res. itself low enough that it won't be a problem.

Maybe your contact in the states has a Grand Prix? Those came with 3800s, but not until series II. IF that's the case, you can use the coils and ICM, but not the mounting plate.

theJMFC 01-07-2005 01:56 AM

I was searching ebay (out of habit - I've got what I need) and saw this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...945505291&rd=1

It's what you need as far as coils and ICM, and I'm pretty sure that if you ask him, he'll have the right metal plate for our application, and just might throw it in. :wink:


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