It begins...(update: engine's stripped)
02-28-2006, 08:21 PM
#12
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Here'* the progress so far: wires and vacuum lines disconnected and tied off, radiator removed, driver side CV axle removed. Nothing pic worthy. I haven't done anything to the car since Sun. I'm slammed with midterms this week. Spring break is next week so there will be plenty of pics then.
BTW, taking apart 10 year old suspension components is fun. I snapped my driver side swap bar endlink bolt trying to loosen it, and it took 3 people to push the control arm down so the ball joint would separate from the steering knuckle. And don't let your friends who only know old cars help you remove stuff. I have to buy a driver side hub assembly since one of my assistants put a prybar throught the seal that sits by the WSS.
I already replaced the right side a month ago so I know they aren't cheap.
BTW, taking apart 10 year old suspension components is fun. I snapped my driver side swap bar endlink bolt trying to loosen it, and it took 3 people to push the control arm down so the ball joint would separate from the steering knuckle. And don't let your friends who only know old cars help you remove stuff. I have to buy a driver side hub assembly since one of my assistants put a prybar throught the seal that sits by the WSS.
I already replaced the right side a month ago so I know they aren't cheap.
02-28-2006, 09:01 PM
#13
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In florida you have rust? I would think a southern car would fare better. Sounds good...keep those grades up and we look forward to more news on the car.
02-28-2006, 09:10 PM
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The car originally belonged to an older couple from up North, and I'm only a mile or so from the ocean at school. No rust on the body, just a light covering on the stuff down low.
02-28-2006, 10:41 PM
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Good luck getting traction with 3.69s, my GTP has trouble finding traction with its 3.29s.
BTW - Why did you disconnect the endlinks to remove the motor, and the ball joints? I'm no expert but I've removed a few 3800s and have never done that.
BTW - Why did you disconnect the endlinks to remove the motor, and the ball joints? I'm no expert but I've removed a few 3800s and have never done that.
03-01-2006, 10:05 AM
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Without the ball joints connected I can move the steering knuckle around a little making it easier to get the axle out. I removed the endlinks because I'm replacing them with poly bushings while I'm down there.
03-01-2006, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 96SSEi_tampa
Basic specs are 3.69 gears(bye bye gas mileage), and I'm installing an ATI converter w/ 3000 stall. It also has every hard part offered by Intense, a shift kit, and an updated 2nd gen LSD. It may be overkill for my car even when I'm finished building it up, but it will take the power that will eventually get thrown at it and I got a great deal on it. :P
03-01-2006, 02:49 PM
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I though about it, but really didn't see any wear when I crack open the new diff. I might switch it out for a third gen in a few months if no one has seen any problems with the new design.
03-01-2006, 04:15 PM
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Many people have had problems with the Gen 2.5'*... Honeslty how many miles are on the Gen 2 before it got 'refreshed'? It just seems like this would be the best time to replace it for $250 since it is out of the car.