Nuking a Camaro....
12-07-2007, 10:57 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by clm2112
Originally Posted by ieatfeets
i need specs on the motor or my minds ganna blow thinking of the possibilitys. aluminum heads say powerful things.
Ok,
1977 400 4-bolt (Mildon Splayed) Small block, bored and stroked to 420cid.
Alumunim 58cc GM Heads
JE forged dished pistons
Forged Crank, internally balanced
327 Rods
Aluminum short water pump
Edelbrock Performer manifold
Holley 0-80457S (600cfm, vac secondary, electric choke)
GM HEI distributor with vac/mech advance)
Edelbrock headers with gutted out cat.
misc bits and pieces (double roller timing chain, HV oil pump, etc.)
THM700R4 with a manual valve body and a modified TCC to work without an ECM commanded lockup.
Only one driven accessory - the alternator. (I did the 1LE A/C delete, and switched to a manual steering box to loose the P/* pump.)
All this stuffed in a 1987 Vin "*" (2.8L) Sport Coupe chassis... in otherwords, super sleeper
Biggest mistake made thus far: I should have just went straight to a 502 BBC and been done with it.
I'm currently on day three of gutting out the interior. New carpet showed up today but I still need to get the wiring behind the dash cleaned up and the extra circuits removed.
12-08-2007, 08:38 AM
#14
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But if you have to drive more than 10 miles to the strip, or to cruise every so often....you'll want the 700R4. They can be built to handle almost as much power as the 400 anyway.
BTW PLEASE PLEASE tell me that you have at least some chassis connectors under the car. The T-top cars have a tendency to twist after a while, nothing massively dramatic, but it'll lead to cracks in the A-pillar and the cowl.
BTW PLEASE PLEASE tell me that you have at least some chassis connectors under the car. The T-top cars have a tendency to twist after a while, nothing massively dramatic, but it'll lead to cracks in the A-pillar and the cowl.
12-08-2007, 08:45 AM
#15
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This is the same guy that wrote this gem up....
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=78912
I think that chassis is gonna be pretty stiff
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=78912
I think that chassis is gonna be pretty stiff
12-08-2007, 10:15 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by Mopar MAN
But if you have to drive more than 10 miles to the strip, or to cruise every so often....you'll want the 700R4. They can be built to handle almost as much power as the 400 anyway.
BTW PLEASE PLEASE tell me that you have at least some chassis connectors under the car. The T-top cars have a tendency to twist after a while, nothing massively dramatic, but it'll lead to cracks in the A-pillar and the cowl.
BTW PLEASE PLEASE tell me that you have at least some chassis connectors under the car. The T-top cars have a tendency to twist after a while, nothing massively dramatic, but it'll lead to cracks in the A-pillar and the cowl.
The 700R4 is much maligned, which is a crock of BS. The tranny can take a good amount of abuse even in stock trim. I think it got a bad reputation just because when the first came out nobody worked on them. That led to the assumption, wrongly, that it was a weak transmission. About the only think that tends to be weak is the TCC lockup. Otherwise, it has done a pretty good job for me and has the updates (Vette style 2nd band pistons and accumulators plus the valve body changes so it will hold a gear when being manually upshifted.) Let'* face it, the THM700R4 is the 4L60 and just a few wires and vb changes away from the 4L60E that'* used on cars and trucks. If they were really lemons, the design would have been gone by now.
The chassis uses Southside Machine subframe connectors welded under the belly. It is using boxed trailing arms and a tube panhard rod. Also there'* the shock tower braces.
The car has a 1LE (aluminum) driveshaft, 3.23 10-bolt posi axle. and a Lakewood driveshaft loop on it.
12-08-2007, 10:24 AM
#17
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Agreed the 700R4 can easily be built to handle more power... And yes I agree they do it well in stock form...We have seen many people take a 150k 700 R4 and park it behind a 400 SB and wonder what it failed 6 months later.. High mileage and stock all come to mind for that failure...lol
I have known a few people that used either a built Turbo 350, or a Turbo 400.... Usually they ended up wishing that they had gone to a Built 700R4 for highway travel so they could use the OD gearing..
And yep, the 700R4( 4L60 ) and 4L60-E are the same with a few changes..
Project is looking Good Curt
BTW I love that color Blue
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I have known a few people that used either a built Turbo 350, or a Turbo 400.... Usually they ended up wishing that they had gone to a Built 700R4 for highway travel so they could use the OD gearing..
And yep, the 700R4( 4L60 ) and 4L60-E are the same with a few changes..
Project is looking Good Curt
BTW I love that color Blue
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12-08-2007, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
<snip..>I have known a few people that used either a built Turbo 350, or a Turbo 400.... Usually they ended up wishing that they had gone to a Built 700R4 for highway travel so they could use the OD gearing..
<snip..>BTW I love that color Blue
<snip..>BTW I love that color Blue
The hard core drag racers turned their back on it...they didn't need a 4th gear, and were so used to then simpler 350, 400, Glides, etc..what the heck did they need the 700R4 for ? So it got ignored (a bit of racer snobbery) Roadrace folks blow their noses at any car that doesn't have three pedals on the floor, so no aftermarket time and effort went into the 700R4 until the early 90'*...the 3rd and 4th gen F-Body/ Vette / Buick GN crowd. Then suddenly "Hey, these things aren't so bad after all"
For a bracket racer or street machine, these suckers work. They just need the same care and attention as any other automatic transmission. You want your Bonnie'* transmission to last, you put an aux cooler on it and keep track of the fluid. Same goes with the 700R4...take care of it and it will take care of you
12-08-2007, 10:58 AM
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Ecxactly the same thought as me there Curt... When I used to hang out at my Buddies house a lot... We saw a lot of the 700R4'* burn up... It was simply getting to hot and needed a Trans cooler to keep it happy.. And this climate is bad on just about every auto Trans.. The very reasons my cars get a Trans cooler
My Buddy used to run around in an 83-84 GMC Truck with a Small Block 268 I think it may have been... One of the Smallest SB Chevy V8'* I had ever seen.. But he had a mild cam in it, good carb and intake and I believe 350 heads... Motor ran good, and it was attached to a 700R4... as much as he towed he loved that 4th gear, and it reduced gas gage wear and tear
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My Buddy used to run around in an 83-84 GMC Truck with a Small Block 268 I think it may have been... One of the Smallest SB Chevy V8'* I had ever seen.. But he had a mild cam in it, good carb and intake and I believe 350 heads... Motor ran good, and it was attached to a 700R4... as much as he towed he loved that 4th gear, and it reduced gas gage wear and tear
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