Originally Posted by ssei98
When I open the door the security light begins to flash on and off. When I sit down and close the door it stops flashing. If I open the door, get in and then lock the doors before I close the door the security light comes on steady and stays on.
I have considered that the security system is the culprit. I have tried both of my ignition keys and seem to get the same result with either key.
New developement- Today when I tried to start it when the ump would not run, the air conditiioning went wacko. It came on with the blower on high and the screen blank except for three dashes. I pushed every button and nothing changed.
I went out a few hpours later and it started right up and the air conditioning worked fine,?????????????? Also the screen on the radio (Boose) had random LCD read out that made no sense.???
OK. you're in Ohio. The Bose radio is a tip-off to me. The readout on the radio is either aliens trying to communicate with you in their language, or you have tremendous heat building in your interior and/or dash area.
My '98 SSEi has been doing the same thing during the heat-wave. (today was the first full day we have had a break from 95-105* days.) It also does it in extremely cold conditions, The front display of the radio, is actually a folded LCD plate (with a bulb behind it). The "L' stands for liquid, and '98 stands for that plate has been in there for a long time, and the liquid isn't as "pliable" (conductive/reactive) as it once was.
No big deal, the radio display pops back magically when you drive and stabilize the temp in the cabin. The question you might ask yourself, is if the car was exposed to the heat while sitting.
I cannot explain the electronic climate control unit, but if it is working lets put that aside with a mental note. If we start having other inexplicable electrical issues, I'm going to suggest 1) a cleaning of the battery cables (particularly the ground to the engine base) 2) Check the bus grounding plates at the doors. 3) Run the MAL (Bong) test to find out if you have a short and which subsystem it is in.
Let'* put that aside for now. And see if we can get lucky.
If the ignition keys can crank the engine, that means the resistance(ohms value) in the VATS diodes on the keys are correct.
Try this when you don't have an insane temperature, leaving the car with the windows open for a while can usually be enough (in hopes to avoid the ECC unit barfing on itself)
You'll open the door of the car (SECURITY blinking), then get in the car (SECURITY in steady state). Do nothing. Wait the 5-10 minutes, until the SECURITY goes out. Then put in the key, and try to kick over the engine.
If we get lucky and it works, thats the most you can do to reset the sequence, without running a whole security reset process. Which is real easy, but it takes a lot of time and gas.
I really didn't want to interrupt your methodical troubleshooting with Mike et al. I just wanted to sneak this in because it'* a quickee. But let us know.