pass side rear wheel well area i think it was a 4 pin flattish connector

relays fuses and battery are under the seat in 2000+

on 90'* ones they tried to make it a mystery, in my manual for a bunch of them it says take it to the dealer instead of saying which is which. i dont remember right now.

https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...relay+location

post 7
https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...relay+location

Ok, we know we have fuel now. But, now we need to determine if your getting spark, and fuel going into the cylinders when its doing the no start condition.

Left it sit for a couple hours and tried it again. Had ny son turn the key from off to on several times while I laid under the tank and listened for the pump to hum. It is not humming for 2 seconds like it was earlier today when I was getting it ro run intermitantly. I double checked the connectors at the tank and I don't see any apparent damage. I wiggled the wires while he turned the key on and off. Can't get the pump to hum now. I think I will invest in a fuel pressure gauge tommorrow so i can get a better idea of the actual pressure.

In your original post, you said it seems to have spark. What indications do you have that say you are getting spark?

you need to test the power and ground with a meter visual isnt doing anything.

I haven't had much time to work on this. Went out Monday to work on it. I hit the key and it fired right up. Restarted it 3 or 4 times everthing seems fine. Two hours later I tried one more time and all it does is crank. Left it sit untill Wednesday night and tried again. On Wednesday it fired up as soon as I hit the key. This time I did not turn it off. I set it down on th eground and tried to drive it to the gas station. I got about an 1/8th of a mile and it died. Towed it back to the garage and left it sit. On Friday it started as soon as I hit the key, I just shut it off in disbelief and walked away. I plan on tracing the wires today. The FSM is very difficult to uderstand when it comes to following the path of the source of power to the pump. I did switch the fuel pump relay with the fog lamp relay, seems to work the same either way.

I'm not a quality-wrencher like Mike and Bill and others, but I've had 3 '95-'99 Bonnevilles for a total of 30+ car years. (plus 3 that I rescued for the Veterans' hospital). So sometimes I like to think of myself as the poster boy for obscure weird chit.

This may not be a request you want to hear, but can you tell me what your SECURITY light is doing. What I'd like to know is.... when you get in the car, and close the door (No KEY-ON, no nothing, just sit there)
-Is there a SECURITY being displayed?
-is it blinking or just lit in a steady state?
-If it is on (blinking or steady) how long (roughly) is it on, before it goes out. (it could take as long as 5-10 minutes)

From my experience, we drive around in SSE and SSEis some good part of the time with that stinking actuator arm on the heater vent in varying degrees of screwed-up/broken.

The only thing which is technically not functioning the way it was initially intended more of the time is the Security System sequencing. Sometimes it goes really bad though, and will exert an interrupt.

Please note in a '95 when the security system gets out of whack, one gets a very easy to understand result/problem. The SECURITY is lit and you get NOTHING. It just cuts the circuit. Easy to understand.

Somehow for the '96+, the Engineer who designed the stove pipe setup in the upper gasket, and thought to save $4 by using plastic, instead of metal, in the lower gasket must have been released from the mental institution.

They didn't want him to touch anything important, so they gave him the Security function for the '96+.

Still quite insane, he decided it would be a good idea to just cut fuel supply in the case of an interrupt situation.

Maybe he thought somebody stealing the car would sit there cranking a dry start-up until the police caught him, or drained the battery, or just nuked the ignition-system/engine.

The problem for the owner is that by doing trouble-shooting, he'* going in and out of the door.. or worse has somebody sitting in the car. This will briefly correct the sequence, then break it again with all of the door traffic.

Of course, I'm kidding about our savant engineer, but serious about checking what that SECURITY light is doing.

Should we be lucky, we could fix it back to sequence in 10 minutes.

If not, you can return to the regularly scheduled trouble-shooting.

When I open the door the security light begins to flash on and off. When I sit down and close the door it stops flashing. If I open the door, get in and then lock the doors before I close the door the security light comes on steady and stays on.
I have considered that the security system is the culprit. I have tried both of my ignition keys and seem to get the same result with either key.
New developement- Today when I tried to start it when the ump would not run, the air conditiioning went wacko. It came on with the blower on high and the screen blank except for three dashes. I pushed every button and nothing changed.
I went out a few hpours later and it started right up and the air conditioning worked fine,?????????????? Also the screen on the radio (Boose) had random LCD read out that made no sense.???

OK. you're in Ohio. The Bose radio is a tip-off to me. The readout on the radio is either aliens trying to communicate with you in their language, or you have tremendous heat building in your interior and/or dash area.

My '98 SSEi has been doing the same thing during the heat-wave. (today was the first full day we have had a break from 95-105* days.) It also does it in extremely cold conditions, The front display of the radio, is actually a folded LCD plate (with a bulb behind it). The "L' stands for liquid, and '98 stands for that plate has been in there for a long time, and the liquid isn't as "pliable" (conductive/reactive) as it once was.

No big deal, the radio display pops back magically when you drive and stabilize the temp in the cabin. The question you might ask yourself, is if the car was exposed to the heat while sitting.

I cannot explain the electronic climate control unit, but if it is working lets put that aside with a mental note. If we start having other inexplicable electrical issues, I'm going to suggest 1) a cleaning of the battery cables (particularly the ground to the engine base) 2) Check the bus grounding plates at the doors. 3) Run the MAL (Bong) test to find out if you have a short and which subsystem it is in.

Let'* put that aside for now. And see if we can get lucky.

If the ignition keys can crank the engine, that means the resistance(ohms value) in the VATS diodes on the keys are correct.

Try this when you don't have an insane temperature, leaving the car with the windows open for a while can usually be enough (in hopes to avoid the ECC unit barfing on itself)

You'll open the door of the car (SECURITY blinking), then get in the car (SECURITY in steady state). Do nothing. Wait the 5-10 minutes, until the SECURITY goes out. Then put in the key, and try to kick over the engine.

If we get lucky and it works, thats the most you can do to reset the sequence, without running a whole security reset process. Which is real easy, but it takes a lot of time and gas.

I really didn't want to interrupt your methodical troubleshooting with Mike et al. I just wanted to sneak this in because it'* a quickee. But let us know.