Ok guys, new to the forum, but I've been reading previous posts for some time b/c of the good knowledge base. I actually have a 98 Buick LeSabre, but get all my good info from the Bonne drivers.

I could bore you with the details, but essentially, my previous mechanic never truly fixed my UIM problem before it roasted the innards of a 115K engine. My previous Bonne checked out at 360K, so I’m not at all happy with the mileage I got out of this.
My real issue is that my dad has a 3800 series2 that he is willing to give me. Has about 50K on it from a salvage yard. BUT, it’* been sitting in his garage for about two years. This car is my daily driver and I’m about as ordinary and plain a person as you run across. I’m also about as broke as the next guy, I just need to know how realistically I need to think about my gaskets. How long is too long for gaskets to sit (not a precise question, I know)? I’m not a performance guy so I don’t need anything high end. I’m looking at this from a practical and financial point of view. It’* roughly $270 for a Sealed Power kit…extra money I don’t have. But, if my gaskets are bad, I’ll have to spend the money anyhow…and it’* easier to work on a stand than under the hood.
Also realize that it’* not necessarily an all or nothing question. If so, what gaskets do I need to invest in.

Thanks

Everyone here is going to at LEAST recommend the Fel-Pro metal framed lower intake gasket kit...which is about $75 at Autozone.


And then get the Dorman Aluminum coolant elbows. They should run about a few bucks or so.



If you could, try and find out what year car it came from. This should at least tell us how old the engine is and we can use the date stamped on top of the intake plenum to advise whether you should replace it.

Replace the oil pressure switch. They tend to leak. Plus, with as many times I have pulled these engines, I seem to always break one on the power steering pump.

I don't ever recall anyone on here blowing a head gasket with a 3800.

You could replace the water pump gasket...few bucks again.

Other than that, I can't think of anything else right now.

WilliamE is our resident parts research specialist. He should chime in sooner or later and can help you find the best price possible on parts.

Thanks Mike. Definitely agree with you on the parts mentioned. Just recently came across those aluminum elbows, so I'll be robbing them off of my outgoing engine. Also purchased the ATP intake from Rock...that will be going with me as well. The sad thing is that I ...JUST... had the LIM gaskets you mentioned put on while the mechanic farted around with the failed attempt. Maybe I'm being too hard b/c I've heard people say that if the intake issue isn't caught soon enough, it'* a ticking time bomb even once it gets fixed.

Figured I'd at least go with the Main seals, check the existing LIM with an ohm meter and replace if it isn't 2nd design. Then plug in my "new" UIM and elbows. But specifically including or excluding gaskets can help me pick and choose whether a set, kit, or single gaskets are the best option.

Again, any experience y'all can lend would be ...GREATLY...appreciated.

Oh, to answer your question about age of the engine... It'* a kicker b/c my dad can't remember what year it came out of. The only thing I have to go on is the stamping '24506029'. From what I can find, that only tells me that it'* a 99+. If there is another number on there, I can have him look again to get a better id on it.

I see that I forgot to mention that the incoming engine was from an Impala, so it'* donor is between a '00-05. I'm in the dark as to whether that says anything about the age of the engine though.

It just kinda gives us something to compare to. If you look real close on top of the black plastic plenum, you will see 2 or 3 datestamps like these...




As far as the failure goes, 1 of 2 serious things could happen.

1. You could hydro-lock your engine and maybe cause serious damage. Sometimes, the leak is small enough where the coolant just seeps into a cylinder when the engine is off. That can be fixed.

2. Or, coolant seeps into the crankcase, mixes with the oil and it turns acidic, which, eats bearings like the main crank bearings. Been there, done that.


FYI, 1995-2005 Series 2 engines are the same for the whole 10 year period. It'* all the accessories bolted to it that change from year to year. So, to prevent confusion and possible P-codes, swap over ALL of your current sensors to the new engine just to be on the safe side.

I'll have my dad check it out and get back to me on the date. Lucky me, I think I had the best of both worlds. She hydrolocked on me as I drove in to work. Had her hauled into the shop, but despite multiple return trips to the garage, she kept on sipping the coolant...I figure she finally gave it up with a spun bearing....or two!


Any idea how many sensors I might be looking at?

2 knock sensors(1 on both sides underblock)
1 CAM
1 CRANK
1 MAP
MAF TPS and MAF are on the throttle body
That'* it I think.

if the engine has 50k, its unlikely its had the new style LIM gaskets, i would consider that incredibly important

Ok, had a chance to check on the UIM. The stamping reads 2-2. I honestly don't remember where I saw a write up on how to read it.

I was checking around to see if any of the dealerships could provide info on when the 2nd design was implemented in production vehicles.....but I see two different Fel-Pro 2nd designs. It appears that one is metal while the other just has "washers" to prevent overtightening. So, I agree with the suggestion to do LIM.

Mike, sounds encouraging b/c the number of sensors. I really expected that I'd be looking at a lot more.

Yea, its not really all that bad. About the only "special" tool you will need is a 3ft 3/8" drive extension. Or, do what I do, and put together a bunch of little extensions. This kind of makes the "3ft" extension bend a little. The extension is needed to get at the backwards engine/trans bolts.