Today, I decided to tackle the dead power window motor in my GP GT before the rain rolled in. Even if you don't have a GT coupe, this process should be similar for most W-bodies, if not most cars.

Firstly, pull up the switch and disconnect the plugs. If the tabs are already broken like mine, it'* easy, but if not, there'* a clip on the underside that you need to press in.


Now look underneath the door handle. See these two caps? Grab a small screwdriver and pry them off. It won't take much force.


Under the caps are two Torx #30 bolts. If you're like me and don't own the driver, start the car and go to the hardware store and buy it.



Once you have the driver, the bolts will come out easily. Note that they're angled slightly upward — remember this during reinstallation.


Now grab a trim puller tool, flat screwdriver, or putty knife and pry up all the clips. Disconnect the power wires for the step light.


If you have a tweeter, disconnect that red and black wire by the speaker. Also disconnect the power window wire. Put that door panel somewhere safe.


Now, grab some painters' or masking tape and secure your window in the full upright position. Most people say to use one or two strips of tape, but you know what? Tape is cheap, glass is not.


Carefully remove the plastic liner, pull out the foam piece (one clip and a little black glue), then you'll find a total of seven Torx bolts (four pictured, the other three are to the right). They're in pretty tightly, so use a 10mm socket instead. Loosen these, but don't remove them yet.


Disconnect the three not pictured to remove the motor. Then, remove the four holding in the regulator.

To get the motor out, just push the regulator aside and pull out the motor, taking care to disconnect the power wire. It'll still be connected, so maneuver it carefully, trying to avoid bending the regulator cables.

You've got it out now! Remove these three 10mm bolts to separate the motor from the regulator.


Installation is the reverse: bolt the regulator back onto the motor, and then wiggle it back into place, plugging in the power as you go. Bolt the regulator to the door. Tighten everything up, unless you want it bouncing around as you drive. I wouldn't recommend that.

Stop right here and plug in your window switch. If the window moves, congratulations! Watch it go up and down, and hope it'* smooth, otherwise you may need a regulator too.


Disconnect the switch again. Put the foam back in, put the plastic liner back, plug in the stuff on the door panel, and push the panel back on. Bolt it back in place, put the caps on, then plug in the switch.

Now roll the window down (no matter the season), go for a drive, and enjoy the breeze!

I approve of the tape lol. But I can tell you that it is different on the 00+ Bonnes. The door panel just pops out, no torx bolts, and there'* a special clip in two spots near the center.

Nice post... does the GP get water leaks like the Bonnie when the black substance (butal?) around the inside of the door gets unsealed?

I haven't noticed any evidence of water or rust in the door, but even after being peeled off a few times, that "tar" sticks decently enough.