Originally Posted by Mike1995
Start with the free stuff first. Check your battery cables top to bottom at the connections. REMOVE THEM from the battery. This is a common corrosion area and your symptoms are pointing at this.
If they are clean and TIGHT,
have your battery checked at a autoparts store.
As of right now, I have a list of things I want to check. The last time I got the battery checked, it came back fine. I replaced my alt about 6-8 months ago. I thought maybe it was going bad. If it'* the battery, I don't want a regular old battery. I want to add my two 12 inch subs to her before I get rid of her in a few months. At some point this week, I'll make my way over to Autozone and have the battery tested again. My friend works there and said he'll give me a discount on a battery. Here'* my list of things I want to check this weekend.
2. Chassis grounds
4. Belt tension. A slipping or worn belt, or a weak tensioner can under-drive a good alternator
5. Coil packs
6. PCV Valve- Check if fuel comes out after unplugging vacuum line for a few minutes
7. *I copied this from another thread* "My suggestion is to go back to the ground buses under each front sill plate, disassemble them, clean them with a wire brush, and reassemble with dielectric grease."
8. *Also copied from another thread* "Take the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and smell the vacuum line. Do you smell gas? If so, the FPR is bad. Replace it."
Ground Bus Corrosion
Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) test
1999 Pontiac Bonneville SLE- Yvonne. Vonny for short. 205,000 on the dash
2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT- 52K..bought with 13K on her in 08