Put the original PCM back in and basically has the identical condition. Soon after reaching temperature the motor will cut out and die, then wont restart. Will turn over and seems like it wants to start but won't and seems like ignition is very retarded or not getting full power. Something is heating up and then causing some kind of high resistance it seems? Trying to find where the ground connection is for the PCM, manual says it is on the front crossmember near front left headlight. Wondering about the ground connection down by the starter motor but not sure that should have any effect on this problem.

Seahawks are kicking butt.

in a mini van everything is packed so tight that everything in the engine bay is subject to heat soak so not just the typical icm/crank sensor issues, it could be maf, tps, iac, those are the only ones i can think of that will shut down that engine. could be wires or circuits to any of those as well, connections get worse with heat, all of them not just the big ones. also the fuel pump relay or fuse socket could work for a while then with heat open enough to stop making good contact

Justin,
Thanks for the comments. I was noticing that the load leveling air pump in the back is running all the time. That is a high current circuit and I am going to pull the fuse and see if that draw is one of the culprits pulling to much current. Today I will find every other ground connection and clean them and also the positive side going down to the starter. Somehow I have to find this problem.

I am having a very similar problem in my 2000 Montana. Yesterday, I unlocked my doors with the clicker and lights came on and it all seemed normal. When I turned the key in the ignition, I lost all power. Nothing worked. I left the van for a few hours and when I came back, the same thing happened. It had power until I turned the key.

That sounds more lie a bad switch or a couple of other things to consider. First make sure the battery is good under a load. I would start by making sure the battery is good. Also make sure the connection to the battery is clean and not corroded. Does the car try to turn over, or do you get nothing but the lights?

I just went out there again to see if it would start and I got nothing, not even lights. The clicker doesn't work, no sounds, lights, nothing at all. I was going to take the battery out to get it tested but I can't figure out how to get the dumb thing out! It'* got a fuse box on top of it.

There is one bolt across the top of the fuse box. Take that out. Then you remove the three bolts holding the cross brace and pull the brace out and the fuse box will move out of the way. Disconnect the battery terminals and then you have to remove the one bolt holding the clamp at the bottom of the battery towards the back and lift it out. Check the connections while your at it and clean the ground connection up on the side of the engine compartment. Hope this helps.

Don't forget that everything on this car is metric.

Clean some more ground connections today and looked for any wires near a heat source. I started the car and let it run for hours at idle with no problems. Revved the engine in neutral up to about 2500rpm with no problems. As soon as I put the car in gear and tried to drive it it died. Didn't want to start but I still had the scanner connected and noticed that all the sensors were still functioning and there was about 10 degrees of advance showing but it would miss and sputter and not start. Let it sit for about 1 1/2 hours and it started right up and went back up the driveway I had attempted to drive out of when it had idled for so long. Seems as soon as the engine see a load in dies. I had earlier put it in gear without moving and it had stayed alive until I actually tried to back it up, that is when it died and wouldn't restart. My fuel pressure gauge is in storage about a hundred miles away so I haven't been able to see what the fuel pressure is doing under load. The pump is new and so is the fuel filter.

i think i would go rent one from the parts store, tape it to the windshield and see what it is when it stalls. what brand pump did you get?

The pump is a GM pump assembly with new float for the fuel level switch. Everything on the car is genuine GM parts, Delco. All new injectors also. I would think that after idling for over an hour it would have gone into the open mode running on all sensors but maybe because I can't actually drive the car it isn't switching over from start mode to running mode? Just idling will not complete a bunch of tests like the oxygen sensor tests and the EGR/vvr. Maybe I should run the car with the wheels in the air and see if I can get it to do a drive cycle?