I spin fast enough to make up for it. (which is why I battle engine heat with a vengeance)

I've been running aftermarket wire retainers for two years, guys.

I pull apart two of the valve cover retainers, and the plug wire retainer goes between the 10mm head and the steel sleeve.

Tonight after work, I start on running a couple new wires from the engine to the cabin, install the second MAP sensor (new trans temp sensor is already in), slap the TB on, crossover heat shield, throttle bracket/PS reservior, and hook up some more sensors. I still have to relocate my charcoal canister and finish the FWI too. We'll see how much I get done.

If anyone following the performance threads has noticed, it'* the finalization and little things that take the most time.

Looking good Bill and maybe you spin faster...Try not to get hot under the supercharger ok?

What you say about the little things is true. I had the whole top end on last night in about 30 minutes of actual work. It'll take me a good 3 or 4 hours to tie up loose ends and little stuff.

I thought that you were planning on going with the slightly larger pulley this year? Did you change your mind or did I miss something somewhere?

That is a larger pulley lol
went from a 2.0" back to the old 2.2"

When I rebuilt the nosedrive a couple weeks ago, I slapped the 2.5" on there (2.8" is stock for this setup, Gen3 top end) for testing. However, I forgot about my extra idler bolted off the ICM bracket. It isn't set up to account for a 2.5" SC pulley. It'* set up ideally for a 2.2", and will allow a 2.0". Rather than go through the trouble of removing it, I elected to go with the 2.2".

In addition, I have to know fairly soon about my fueling. In order to determine what needs to be done (if anything), I need to know the fueling demands with the pulley I intend to run this year.

Assuming everything else goes ok, I MAY put the 2" pulley back on in the near future, just to characterize how much boost I was actually running last year. However, my indicated boost will be lower this year regardless, due to the massive porting and higher ratio rockers.

To dispel a myth, indicated boost is flow NOT USED. While my indicated boost may go down, my flow numbers will be WAY higher this year.

I am glad there are people on here to do all the thinking. It would sure hurt my head to think of all this. Not saying I would never do it, it sounds like fun.

I am sure there was a lot of aggravations along the way too. I would like to see a little portfolio put together of this car from the start to the run on the track. This is definitely an awesome build!

Not alot of aggravation. Just time and money. I've had this thing apart enough that it goes quickly. Much of this winter'* work is a culmination of 5 years of tinkering.

On the list for tonight (list is more for me):

RF inner fender liner and wheel/tire.
Remove jackstands.
Install 6 spark plugs and finish routing/looming wires.
Install TB, crossover pipe heat shield, and throttle cable bracket.
Finish FWI, and connect all sensors (8 that I can think of).
Install heater hose bypass o-ring and reconnect both heater hoses.
Install both belts.
Install strut bar (no need to do this before lowering the car, all strut nuts are still on the car)
Install all vacuum lines, and re-route the charcoal canister to it'* new location.
Drill and install new thermostat.
Install EGR.
Install O2
Install BCS/BCA.
Install 2nd MAP sensor and run it'* wires and the new trans temp sender'* wires through the firewall.
Fill oil and coolant.
Put battery on charger for tomorrow'* starting attempt.

List subject to change as I remember more little things still not done.

Very nice Zilla'* almost ready to begin terrorizing the good residents of Albany and Corvallis, again. (Try to go easy on the little old ladies on the sidewalks with their grocery bags).

Your overflow tank needs a little spiffing up)

With my limited knowledge of all the mechanics that went into thisl... all I can say is WOW! That looks amazing. I think you might be able to beat me now in a race