Manifold Painted Pics! FINISHED!!! sorta
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Manifold Painted Pics! FINISHED!!! sorta
Im buying a new upper intake manifold as I have cracked mine slightly and since its going to be nice, new, and shiny, I want to paint it BLUE! Ive heard about possible heat trapping but the thing barely gets warm so I seriously doubt it will make much difference and Im all willing and anxious to do it. How should I prep it when I get ready to paint it and what is a really really good paint? Im just lookin for something simple yet glossy and non-metalic unless metalic would rock hard. Im guessing I'll need to sand it but if its brand new and probably wont have many imperfections I figure I can just throw a nice coat on there and be happy with it. Oh and I'll definitely get some pics for you all when its done cause that wouldnt be fair to take your advice and leave you hanging
Oh and will any engine degreaser sprays or water affect and possibly remove the paint later on the future if I decide to clean my engine because thats what I planned to do after I finally get my car fixed.
Oh and will any engine degreaser sprays or water affect and possibly remove the paint later on the future if I decide to clean my engine because thats what I planned to do after I finally get my car fixed.
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For one.. yes it will trap heat, how much? You won't notice it.
two: You MUST sand it down, no matter how new, and blemish free something is. Just do it, trust me.
three: Engine de-greaser will NOT remove paint, however rough brushes may. If you just use a hose or pressure washer to wash your engine.. then all will be well.
-justin
two: You MUST sand it down, no matter how new, and blemish free something is. Just do it, trust me.
three: Engine de-greaser will NOT remove paint, however rough brushes may. If you just use a hose or pressure washer to wash your engine.. then all will be well.
-justin
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Thanks buddy! There are some really hard to reach crevices so some parts wont be fully sanded. Any idea on what grit to use?
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I usually hit it with some 150/200 if the surface is in good condition [like you have already stated]. If in poor condition, rougher grit, working your way to a higher grit. After you do a shot with 150/200 grit, you may want to go over it with some 300 grit.. if you are very picky, and want this sucker to shine like no tomorrow . As a rule of thumb, if you aren't going to wet sand it, it will be a waste of time to do more than 200 grit on an initial sanding.
For those tight to reach places, try your best to get to them. Fold the sandpaper real thin, so you can really work it into there. Sometimes putting on a square cm [or .5 sq inch] of sandpaper on the tip of a medium sized flat screwdriver to help work it in there, will do wonders. Be sure to be careful when painting in those areas, so you do not have a build up, or runs. You'll have to start all over with that.
You may want to consider doing this.. if you plan on wetsanding [otherwise, ignore]. After you spray on a beautiful coat, to just lightly go over it with some 300 grit, and sand it until dull [after the paint dries overnight, of course]. Then repaint again. This usually gives a deeper colour, and gives more paint on the surface for you to wetsand [to get the ultra smooth paint].
Don't forget to use rubbing alcohol after sanding, to clean off any dust/material. This way the paint sticks to nothing but the item you want painted .
-justin
For those tight to reach places, try your best to get to them. Fold the sandpaper real thin, so you can really work it into there. Sometimes putting on a square cm [or .5 sq inch] of sandpaper on the tip of a medium sized flat screwdriver to help work it in there, will do wonders. Be sure to be careful when painting in those areas, so you do not have a build up, or runs. You'll have to start all over with that.
You may want to consider doing this.. if you plan on wetsanding [otherwise, ignore]. After you spray on a beautiful coat, to just lightly go over it with some 300 grit, and sand it until dull [after the paint dries overnight, of course]. Then repaint again. This usually gives a deeper colour, and gives more paint on the surface for you to wetsand [to get the ultra smooth paint].
Don't forget to use rubbing alcohol after sanding, to clean off any dust/material. This way the paint sticks to nothing but the item you want painted .
-justin
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Is 500* paint enough for possibly the valve covers? BTW I got Chevrolet Orange-Red for the UIM because I couldnt find a good blue and didnt want it to be too bright.
#8
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You'll be fine temp wise. Most all reworked classic cars have some sort of paint on engine parts, and they have many more cooling issues then you will.
If you can't sand it all make sure you can use a high temp etching primer.
If you can't sand it all make sure you can use a high temp etching primer.
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This is my new upper and soon it will be red. I love this new one a lot, it looks quite a bit different than the OEM one and I like it a lot.