Underdrive Pulley: Which one should I choose?
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Underdrive Pulley: Which one should I choose?
Ok I'm going for one of these: http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ive_pulley.htm
Either the water pump or alternator 10% underdrive pulley. Why not go for both? Well that would require a larger belt to do both and changing the belts on an L67 does not favor my brain. Besides, I'll be getting rockers in the winter so I'll have all the top end I'll want then.
I'm leaning towards the water pump pulley because it is so ungodly easy to swap out, while the alternator pulley is more of pain to me (even more if it goes bad and I have to install a new one). However which one do you think would I benefit more from?
Also one more slight issue, does the GP have a motor mount bracket in the same location as a Bonnie, because just look at the low clearence in these pictures:
Either the water pump or alternator 10% underdrive pulley. Why not go for both? Well that would require a larger belt to do both and changing the belts on an L67 does not favor my brain. Besides, I'll be getting rockers in the winter so I'll have all the top end I'll want then.
I'm leaning towards the water pump pulley because it is so ungodly easy to swap out, while the alternator pulley is more of pain to me (even more if it goes bad and I have to install a new one). However which one do you think would I benefit more from?
Also one more slight issue, does the GP have a motor mount bracket in the same location as a Bonnie, because just look at the low clearence in these pictures:
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Well I don't like the idea of slowing the water pump, maybe it pumps faster than needed but I'd like the most amount of coolant circulating to keep temps down.
And for the Alt. pulley, I've never used one, but you for sure won't see an underdrive Alt pulley on my ride, My electrical load is a just a little bit above stock I need all the Volts I can get.
But for those with stock stereos and not above normal electrical load required, I'd say go for it. Get the 10% underdrive. Does your 98 have Volt gauge? Just curious. IF you do keep an eye on it and compare before and after with it.
I do agree with the fact that they are all lighter pullies, less weight rotating is more power made, Can't arguee that one.
If your going for more pullies why not go for the 8-rib conversion?
http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ion_pulley.htm
I thought it was light weight but dosen't say, sure will get no slipage though.
And for the Alt. pulley, I've never used one, but you for sure won't see an underdrive Alt pulley on my ride, My electrical load is a just a little bit above stock I need all the Volts I can get.
But for those with stock stereos and not above normal electrical load required, I'd say go for it. Get the 10% underdrive. Does your 98 have Volt gauge? Just curious. IF you do keep an eye on it and compare before and after with it.
I do agree with the fact that they are all lighter pullies, less weight rotating is more power made, Can't arguee that one.
If your going for more pullies why not go for the 8-rib conversion?
http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ion_pulley.htm
I thought it was light weight but dosen't say, sure will get no slipage though.
#3
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SSEi'* dont' have a Voltmeter, they have a Boost gauge instead in the 92-99 cars Taylor.
Running the alt slower may make it last longer, but you'll loose amps. I dunno if i'd do that in an sse/ssei car, or anything with a Deck or more.
And cooling, i wouldn't sacrafice that either. Especially on a modded engine.
GP'* have the front motor mounts. from the rad top to the engine.
Running the alt slower may make it last longer, but you'll loose amps. I dunno if i'd do that in an sse/ssei car, or anything with a Deck or more.
And cooling, i wouldn't sacrafice that either. Especially on a modded engine.
GP'* have the front motor mounts. from the rad top to the engine.
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My understanding is that our water pumps cavitate in the OEM configuration. The 10% ZZP pulley is designed to prevent this, and actually improves cooling effieciency as a result. Just something I read, don't remember where.
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Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
SSEi'* dont' have a Voltmeter, they have a Boost gauge instead in the 92-99 cars Taylor.
Interesting on the pulleys though, don't really want any of the tradeoffs, want to know more about the WP one though, someboy has to of tested it.
Surprised there'* not a full light weight set available.
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I'll be testing the WP pulley later this week for ya guys.
I don't think its going to clear our motor mount bracket though...we'll see.
I don't think its going to clear our motor mount bracket though...we'll see.
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i thought the reason we dont have lightweight pulleys for everything was due to the fact that the motor was internally balanced or somehting like that.
#8
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I think they meant lightweight aftermarket pulleys. They'll still have less mass to rotate. It all adds up. You'd be surprised at how much the cam/valvetrain sucks from total output, let alone an SC.
If the stock WP cavitates in stock config it'* not flowing all that it could. Running just under cavitating would flow the most.
If the stock WP cavitates in stock config it'* not flowing all that it could. Running just under cavitating would flow the most.
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I have both a GP and a Bonneville. Both powerd by the L36. The info I have is that the waterpump pulleys work on the GP, but don't work on the Bonne due to the very bar you are discussing here. Its a shame to because my GP picked up .127 in the quarter mile trap times with the 10% and the underdrive pulley. I would suggest that you pick up the lightend water pump pulley that ZZP offers. I myself plan on doing this. The whole point is to lighten up the rotating mass thus freeing up HP. Hope this helps.