I'm just gonna rattle these off real quick. Mind you I still don't know much about these engines so bear with me....

I was looking at zzperformance'* website, specifically looking at the turbo kit for my car. They claim 300 hp w/o intercooler, 400 with. Wonder what PSI both runs were at to determine this... anyways

I've heard from multiple sources that the L67 has forged pistons/rods/crank stock. My idea is this; if I were to turbocharge my L36 and have an L67 laying around... of course the L67 SHOULD be able to take more boost, considering the already forged bottom end... my one question is this. If I were to turbocharge the L67 I'd have to do something with the non existant IM. Does the L36 IM swap over to the L67 no problems? Or is that not possible?

And if that is not possible, are the heads/internals swappable between the two; ie can I take the pistons/rods/crank/heads from the L67 and bolt them into the L36?

And also does anyone sell turbo manifolds by themselves?

And regarding the PCM.. I'm used to with Honda'* that theres a ton of guys I can get in contact with, send out my stock ECU to them and they can chip it for multiple programs, like Hondata, Uberdata, Neptune, Crome, etc... I had my cousins Accord chipped for Uberdata... you could then hook up a laptop to the ECU and use uberdata on the laptop to do your own tuning.. anything like that possible in the GM world? And if not do you think a *-AFC would be a good alternative?

And then I don't know wtf I'd do with the transmission lol... someone give me some inspiration here fellas

Instead of using an L36 upper intake, most people use a supercharger hollowed out (no rotors). As for the computer, look for a Powertuner, you can tune it yourself with a laptop.

Hmm, interesting idea... of maybe I should twincharge :P hahaha man that'd be hard to tune for... but is the L36 IM able to be bolted onto the top?

Powertuner? I'll have to look out for it, thanks

The L67 pistons are just hypereutectic not forged.
I'm also prety sure the rods & crank aren't forged either.
The fwd L36 lower and upper intake manifold do swap. The L26 (metal UIM) intake manifolds also swap.
There is also the option of using an F-body rwd L36 lower and upper intake manifold. I'm currently helping a friend build a turbo regal and hes using the f-body manifolds. One of the advantages of using the rwd manifolds is the TB points to the passenger side making it easier for intercooler piping. The UIM is also aluminum.
But yes you could just use a hollowed out */c. But IMO it won't flow as well as any of the n/a manifolds.
There are also custom upper intake manifolds for use with the L67 LIM.
Honestly I would just use the L36 block. If you have a safe tune it will hold up well. Stock L36 shortblocks have seen 10s and 9s in GPs.
Contact cartuning maybe they would sell just the manifolds.

somewhat easy route

http://zzperformance.com/grand_prix/...ts1.php?id=410

Thanks for all of the information, 95naSTA. What makes the L67 a better engine than an L36 then for forced induction? Lower compression? I am now unsure of the reasoning behind people saying the L67 is a better engine?

Very interesting with the information of the L26 and f body L36... thanks for that. Now, does this mean that I could swap the L26 IM onto my L36 as it sits, or the f body L36?

"Stock L36 shortblocks have seen 10s and 9s in GPs." I'm going to guess there was extensive headwork?

Thanks man

Thanks for the link. Two things hinder me on purchasing this:
1) I have a personal vendetta against turbo kits... it'* just one of those things. I feel a ton of satisfaction from piecing together my own kit as well... and also it usually turns out to be cheaper. And also
2) I don't have the money lol Always a hinderence eh?

The lower compression can handle more boost and it is stronger. But the L36 can take a beating if done right.
You can swap a L26 upper intake manifold on your L36 as it sits but it will require modification and you will loose your idle air control valve/system.
More info on the L26 UIM swap here
For the F-body setup you need the upper and lower intake manifolds as well as the TB. This is not a direct swap either. It will bolt up not problem but you need to move the battery, get a different upper coolant hose, re-route vac lines, and other little stuff.
Yep plus every possible bolt on.
You need a nice flowing engine to run alot of boost safely.

Nobody said BETTER.

The L67 was designed for boost. And there'* alot more than just the pistons, rods, and wristpins to it.

Larger axles are another factor, but that'* part of the trans.

Follow the advice in this topic, and pay close attention to the use of the word 'safe'.

Thank you once again 95naSTA

My ultimate goal for this car is to be in the 13'* on street tires and 12'* on slicks (Even if I get high 13'*/low 13'* respectively I'd be more than happy with this vehicle). If it ever happens this will be years from now...

That'* why I'm trying to figure out what I will do. I'm thinking now that an L67 engine with f body L36 lower/upper intake manifold would do good... Now, to figure out turbo manifolds, turbo and fuel management.

Has anyone used the stock merger of the stock manifolds to put a turbo on? IE, maybe have a pipe welded to the crossover which is then welded to a T3 flange? I'm seeing more and more people do this with other vehicles and I don't see why it wouldnt work in this application If properly done I don't see why it wouldnt work...

Also what years Camaro should I be looking for regarding the IM setup? My friend has a 1990 Camaro V6 and has the engine just sitting in his garage.. maybe I could take it off of his hands

13s on street tires could be had waaay easier/cheaper by swaping in an L67 engine/trans and doing some simple mods.
A turbo setup on these cars is going to be very expensive no matter which way you slice it. If you can do it cheaper and as effective as the zzp kit I'll be suprised. I'm helping a friend build a kit for his regal and its VERY expensive if you do it right.
But if your still after a turbo..
People have used the stock manifolds (block off plate on the rear) and modified the crossover. Not really the best thing to do in terms of flow..
The f-body manifolds would be on any 95+ L36. There were two different styles of the UIM though. The later version being situated a little better.. I can't remember what year they changed it.
To read about how other people did their setups check out the turbo sections at:
www.3800pro.com
and
www.clubgp.com