Transmission & dyno tune TIME: Ed's Bonne Bulid Up
#31
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UPDATE: There isn’t much left to do before that old & weak L67 can come out. Oil pressure sender, TA mount & motor-trans bolts & rear header need to be removed then its “Go time.” I should have another torque wrench tomorrow which can do the 11ft/lbs required for the LIM And */C I believe. I need to make a backing plate to remove my MPS hub off the old gen 3 which was missing about 20% of it’* rotor coating today when I pulled it. Actually I just need to mill a larger slot in to my huge ¼ thick steel backing plate.
I’m contemplating dropping my tank (And dropping my exhaust) while my car is sitting where it is and putting in a Walbro and new tank & sender… Let me know of places I can check on a fuel sender.
Picture time.
Had to leave work early to go look over a 98 Regal GS my cousin was looking at. It turned out to be a over priced, dirty waste of time.
Ed
I’m contemplating dropping my tank (And dropping my exhaust) while my car is sitting where it is and putting in a Walbro and new tank & sender… Let me know of places I can check on a fuel sender.
Picture time.
Had to leave work early to go look over a 98 Regal GS my cousin was looking at. It turned out to be a over priced, dirty waste of time.
Ed
#32
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Some good progress you have going. You'll want to unhook the radiator hoses as well.
I found the rear manifold bolts come off easy if you put a towel over the lower intake and kneel on it. With the headers.. some of the bolts won't be accessible from underneath. (After a couple times..you'll be a pro). Also... I noticed the new engine has the couple of studs in the exhaust, they are intended to help hold/line up the manifolds, but when you have headers..I found they get in the way for removal etc. I took them out and replaced with regular exhaust bolts.
I found the rear manifold bolts come off easy if you put a towel over the lower intake and kneel on it. With the headers.. some of the bolts won't be accessible from underneath. (After a couple times..you'll be a pro). Also... I noticed the new engine has the couple of studs in the exhaust, they are intended to help hold/line up the manifolds, but when you have headers..I found they get in the way for removal etc. I took them out and replaced with regular exhaust bolts.
#33
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Some good progress you have going. You'll want to unhook the radiator hoses as well.
I found the rear manifold bolts come off easy if you put a towel over the lower intake and kneel on it. With the headers.. some of the bolts won't be accessible from underneath. (After a couple times..you'll be a pro
I found the rear manifold bolts come off easy if you put a towel over the lower intake and kneel on it. With the headers.. some of the bolts won't be accessible from underneath. (After a couple times..you'll be a pro
I heeded you advice about kneeling on the LIM and removed the top end of the L67.
I had no trouble getting at the all the bolts from underneath installing the headers. Nothing like a lift with air tools and a 3-4ft extension bar and a swivel. I’m not aiming to become a pro installing & removing things multiple times on my car.
Well today my co-worker went and picked up a new 3/8” in/lbs torque wrench so I was able to get the LIM on the L32. The rest of my time was spent in our sandblaster room where I was wire wheeling bolts & changing ICMs, brackets, pulleys for the new motor.
I’m hoping to have the old motor out today (Friday) or Monday and the next day to have the New L32 at least bolted in.
I got my PCM back from INTENSE today since I sent it out for a “Tune up” to coincide with my new setup till I can get it dyno tuned. I’m going to order new donut gaskets and some ARP header bolts from Intense along with something else that slips my memory right now.
Over the weekend I’m going to try to pick up a new starter since my old one has a bad solenoid and beat up starter gear. And various hoses and clamps and injector o-rings. Just a bunch of nickel and dime crap now... Atleast till I pay for my transmisson
Ed
#34
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Since the EGR tube isn't hooked up yet.. also pull back that piece of metal that holds it and check for any small cracks in the tube.
Looking really good Ed. Keep up the great work.
Looking really good Ed. Keep up the great work.
#35
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I'm at the shop right now working on the car. My headers are off, oil pressure sender is unhooked (the L32 oil pressure sender is 2 pin while the L67 one is 4 pin) ps pumping is hanging from an ac line. I'm about to tackle this backwards bolt, unhook the ac compressor. she should be ready to pull on monday then OR maybe I'll try today... Who knows
#36
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Well all I have to do is remove 1 bolt from the ac compressor & the center bolt on the TA mount & motor-trans bolts. After looking at some pictures Boosty sent me I could not find the backwards bolt... Is it comfirmed to be on 98s?
I went to Napa & picked up my new rad hoses. Tried to get new heater hoses & injector o-rings but no luck there.
Heres some pictures from the day
This would explain why my headers were leaking at the front of the cross over.
L67 coolant elbow
I didn’t feel like disturbing any fixtures on the Bridgeport’* to mill a slot in my MPS backing plate. So I just busted out the angle grinder.
Like a glove
Out with the old & in with the new
Just layed it on there for a picture
Ed
I went to Napa & picked up my new rad hoses. Tried to get new heater hoses & injector o-rings but no luck there.
Heres some pictures from the day
This would explain why my headers were leaking at the front of the cross over.
L67 coolant elbow
I didn’t feel like disturbing any fixtures on the Bridgeport’* to mill a slot in my MPS backing plate. So I just busted out the angle grinder.
Like a glove
Out with the old & in with the new
Just layed it on there for a picture
Ed
#38
Excellent progress so far.
I am watching this post with great interest.
I sure hope you see more than the great gains I have seen.
That cam should really wake up the potential of that GenV.
Make sure when you install the replacement donut gasket for your TOGs that you get it square. I notice from the corrosion marks on the failed one that it was cocked. That will stress it and make it crack.
I am watching this post with great interest.
I sure hope you see more than the great gains I have seen.
That cam should really wake up the potential of that GenV.
Make sure when you install the replacement donut gasket for your TOGs that you get it square. I notice from the corrosion marks on the failed one that it was cocked. That will stress it and make it crack.
#39
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
That cam should really wake up the potential of that GenV.
Make sure when you install the replacement donut gasket for your TOGs that you get it square. I notice from the corrosion marks on the failed one that it was cocked. That will stress it and make it crack.
Make sure when you install the replacement donut gasket for your TOGs that you get it square. I notice from the corrosion marks on the failed one that it was cocked. That will stress it and make it crack.
And stay tuned because I know my 173k orignal trans is not going to hold so once she is running I will be getting a INTENSE transmission. Along with a dyno tune too so I should have some #* to brag about
Time to go out and have some fun... But not to much since I'm working tomorrow and making some needed $ and some needed parts around the shop.
Ed