Top swap 2000 SLE
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Top swap 2000 SLE
Well my top swap was completed a month ago but i finally got it running 2 days ago. I bought an ssm90 idler pulley well it seems the bolt that it came with didnt go in the head cause it snapped and made the pulley useless and now i have a bolt in my the head( in the head a bit below the ICM theres a hole we fit the bolt in) later on we will get it out and get a smaller bolt for this setup for now the belt routed without the AC .... and summer hit so i need ac soon.... now onto my question
I have a gen V, with a n* TB, lq4 MAF, FWI, 3 inch down pipe, magnaflow cat, straight pipes where the mufflers used to be, and a 4.2 inch pulley. soon i want some rockers and headers are next but with what i have now will my trans hold up? this car was kept in awesome condition by its previous owner who bought it new. It has 207k miles ive had it for a year so i suspect the engine and trans have been well kept cause the engine feels great, but the trans when warmed up shifts rough... its always done this... my dad said the trans was very "Machon" lol (its a good thing) but i dont buy it....
SOOOO with these mods will my trans be able to hold up? i mean i anna take a couple of 0- 60 wot runs to see if i have any gains.... will gunning it kill the trans. I have an hd differential and cover and reluctor wheel i will install soon (any write up on those) and a bill boost shift kit that im dying to install after the differential so will it hold up?
I have a gen V, with a n* TB, lq4 MAF, FWI, 3 inch down pipe, magnaflow cat, straight pipes where the mufflers used to be, and a 4.2 inch pulley. soon i want some rockers and headers are next but with what i have now will my trans hold up? this car was kept in awesome condition by its previous owner who bought it new. It has 207k miles ive had it for a year so i suspect the engine and trans have been well kept cause the engine feels great, but the trans when warmed up shifts rough... its always done this... my dad said the trans was very "Machon" lol (its a good thing) but i dont buy it....
SOOOO with these mods will my trans be able to hold up? i mean i anna take a couple of 0- 60 wot runs to see if i have any gains.... will gunning it kill the trans. I have an hd differential and cover and reluctor wheel i will install soon (any write up on those) and a bill boost shift kit that im dying to install after the differential so will it hold up?
#2
Retired
Not sure about it hurting your trans much, but repetive launches on it may do something to your diff. Billboost should have more knowledge about that.
On another note, have you made any programming changes to your PCM? Or are you running with the factory 2000SE settings?
On another note, have you made any programming changes to your PCM? Or are you running with the factory 2000SE settings?
__________________
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#3
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
To double check.. all the bolt stuff was extra info and you aren't trying to solve that, right? You are primarily wondering about the 207K mile transmission.
It'* a matter of time, there is really no nice way to say it. The trans is the weakest link in our cars. Your'* not having an HD diff or output shaft make it slightly weaker in the diff area. Having 207K on it is a good feat for any transmission. Adding power as you have and plan to...you should plan a transmission fund. It'* not a matter of if...it'* a matter of when.
To give you an idea. I didn't plan on going as big as I did.
First I did the maintenance, suspension and brakes
Then I did the trans
Finally I did the engine
Moving fast isn't any good if you can't control it.
Power isn't any good if you can't put it to the ground
OMG.. this car is soooo much fun with everything upgraded.
It'* a matter of time, there is really no nice way to say it. The trans is the weakest link in our cars. Your'* not having an HD diff or output shaft make it slightly weaker in the diff area. Having 207K on it is a good feat for any transmission. Adding power as you have and plan to...you should plan a transmission fund. It'* not a matter of if...it'* a matter of when.
To give you an idea. I didn't plan on going as big as I did.
First I did the maintenance, suspension and brakes
Then I did the trans
Finally I did the engine
Moving fast isn't any good if you can't control it.
Power isn't any good if you can't put it to the ground
OMG.. this car is soooo much fun with everything upgraded.
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Thanks boost and if you have a belt routing that i can use that will let me use the SC and the air id be happy O.o I have the accessory belt pulley 4.2 from ZZP so im forced to do it how i have it now :/ and ahaha man your car is a monster you cant even do anything to it anymore mines will prlly never get that big.... but man what would i need to put in the tranny to beef it up against the inevitable? Will rebuilding it help?
#5
Retired Senior Admin
Expert Gearhead
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
24 Posts
Like Bill said, the trans wont hold up for long as it sits. Changing the Diff is easy. Drain the fluid, remove the passenger side axle, remove the drivers side axle. Remove the torque mount on the diff cover, remove the diff cover, remove the diff by pushing in and then pulling out. Make sure the output shaft does not come out, only the diff. Remove the locking ring from the output shaft on the diff side. Remove the output shaft from the drivers side. Reverse the order when putting back in. Do not have the locking ring on the end you pull threw the trans or you risk breaking the oil dam.
#6
Retired Senior Admin
Expert Gearhead
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
24 Posts
Thanks boost and if you have a belt routing that i can use that will let me use the SC and the air id be happy O.o I have the accessory belt pulley 4.2 from ZZP so im forced to do it how i have it now :/ and ahaha man your car is a monster you cant even do anything to it anymore mines will prlly never get that big.... but man what would i need to put in the tranny to beef it up against the inevitable? Will rebuilding it help?
At a minimum. Hardened input shaft, hardened 4th gear input shaft. new EPC, HD diff. A higher stall torque converter is a good idea, helps take some strain off the hard parts and helps with traction. I would suggest a new transfer chain seeing how many miles you have on it.
Rebuilding the valve body is a good idea, replacing the clutches is also a good idea.
#7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Not trying to contradict you Dan.. but my experience is different.
First.. he doesn't have the diff end dogbone like our 92-99'*. So his diff is nearly wide open. In reality the diff isn't the only weakpoint. Being an 00, there'* no hardened 4th shaft and adding an HD diff wouldn't help the clutches, sloppy valve body slide bores etc etc. It'* rebuild time.
As for removing the locking clips. The only locking clip I suggest removing is in 97 at the output shaft to diff, because then it'* a hard C clip that does not compress and must be removed to pull the output shaft out the driverside properly (to keep from hurting the lube dam). All other clips that compress should be left on to keep them from being enlarged/stretched by spreading them for removal. Some trans goo on them keeps them lubed and sliding through the lube dam w/o problems.
First.. he doesn't have the diff end dogbone like our 92-99'*. So his diff is nearly wide open. In reality the diff isn't the only weakpoint. Being an 00, there'* no hardened 4th shaft and adding an HD diff wouldn't help the clutches, sloppy valve body slide bores etc etc. It'* rebuild time.
As for removing the locking clips. The only locking clip I suggest removing is in 97 at the output shaft to diff, because then it'* a hard C clip that does not compress and must be removed to pull the output shaft out the driverside properly (to keep from hurting the lube dam). All other clips that compress should be left on to keep them from being enlarged/stretched by spreading them for removal. Some trans goo on them keeps them lubed and sliding through the lube dam w/o problems.
#8
Retired
Didn't know you had to remove the drivers side shaft also. Or is it a 00+ thing?
Didn't have to on my 95 when I swapped out diffs.
Didn't have to on my 95 when I swapped out diffs.
__________________
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post