Port matching LIM on 2001 SE
#1
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Port matching LIM on 2001 SE
It appears sometime between this summer and now I'll have my LIM off and I was wondering if using a dremel to port match (not sure if thats what its called) the LIM would be as effective on a 2001 SE as I've read in a few threads it is on the 90s L36s. Would it be exactly the same as the guides others have posted? Sorry if someone with a 2000+ allready did it and I missed their post a few searches didnt return anything about it. If I do this i would like to get a LIM from a junk yard or something, I dont know much about this kinda stuff yet, what should I like for to make sure im getting something useable and how much is a reasonable price?
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Casting of the L36 LIM did not change from 90'* to 00'*, so yes, you will find your stock LIM outlets are as crappy as you've seen in the threads you saw.
Make sure your JY LIM has flat, non-warped/non-gouged mating surfaces (bring a straight edge), doesn't have mangled injector holes, doesn't have any stripped threaded holes (bring an M8-1.25 bolt), and isn't too severely coolant-pitted on the flanges. I wouldn't pay more than $50 shipped for an excellent L36 LIM, $30 to $40 at a u-pick.
Make sure your JY LIM has flat, non-warped/non-gouged mating surfaces (bring a straight edge), doesn't have mangled injector holes, doesn't have any stripped threaded holes (bring an M8-1.25 bolt), and isn't too severely coolant-pitted on the flanges. I wouldn't pay more than $50 shipped for an excellent L36 LIM, $30 to $40 at a u-pick.
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Thanks for the information, I really want to try this and the FWI. This might be a stupid question but could you post or link to a picture and describe where i should be looking for coolant pitting. Never actualy done any work on anything in an engine bay before except for basic tune up stuff and not really sure what the flanges are.
#4
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Coolant pitting can be repaired.
Clean out all corrosion and de-grease. Lightly fill the pits with JB Weld, then after curing, sand flat:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=40
It helps to pre-warm the part in the oven on warm first, as this causes the JB Weld to run a little, allowing it to work into the pits. Poking it in with a toothpick will help remove trapped air bubbles.
It may take two applications to nail it all.
Clean out all corrosion and de-grease. Lightly fill the pits with JB Weld, then after curing, sand flat:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=40
It helps to pre-warm the part in the oven on warm first, as this causes the JB Weld to run a little, allowing it to work into the pits. Poking it in with a toothpick will help remove trapped air bubbles.
It may take two applications to nail it all.
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Thanks for the input, I've allready gotta buncha jbweld I can use now just gotta wait for spring break to get back over to Tacoma and hit up the junk yards. Hopefuly I can find one without pitting but since its repairable im sure ill be able to find a useable.
Edit: Gonna purchase a dremel to do this. Would the cordless version be able to handle this or should I get the Corded version?
Edit: Gonna purchase a dremel to do this. Would the cordless version be able to handle this or should I get the Corded version?
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