i'm doing a little research hoping to build up a buget nitruos (full time, race only) motor to drop in a second van.

my intention was to build up a pretty solid bottom end, do some mild porting to the heads and intake and run a direct port wet system, 125-200 shot depending upon the cam and rotary assembly i can get put together and if the tranny can carry the load.

anyway i had wanted to tap into the runners in the UIM but the plastic will not tap easily, nor will it survive a single nitrous backfire. the early EGRless alluminum manifold should tap much easier and hold up better. i would also have the ability to gasket match and port the manifolds. the only disadvantage i see is loosing the EGR. i've read about burnt exhaust valves and the like.

in a race only situation would the loss of the EGR be a serious issue to power or longevity, or would the lack of an EGR actually prove to be an advantage? what supporting modifications could/should i make to compensate for the lack of an EGR?

sorry again for all the stupid questions. i just want to learn as much as i can before i buuy a single part. thanks for tolorating me.

Just my opinion but the EGR for the race motor isn't needed. You will be tuning around it in any case, and won't function at full throttle even if installed. The only time it is active is at part throttle and cruise conditions and is beneficial on a street vehicle.

The only time an EGR should be deleted is if you have an intercooler to offset it, and also so you don't clog the intercooler core with EGR debris.

The EGR actually reduces combustion temperatures. It'* a benefit, not a hindrance.

There is a LOT of testing done to support this. Just do a search, and you'll find lots of threads on this very subject.

while willren, your answers are almost always helpful and i respect your opinions here on the board. (you're mean in chat) i'm not sure if you really understood the question i asked.

the motor in question will be a bottle fed L-27. no supercharger. nitrous injection in and of itself will serve to cool intake charges. lastly i'd rather not remove the EGR, but using my prefured alluminum intake will kind of force me to remove the EGR.

***w00t: 150 posts! mini-party! Whoooooooo!***

Well, let'* clarify here: When you're done with this are you never going to drive it on the street? Will it be on a trailer until you get to the track?

If not, and you will use it as a street driver, I would personally find a way to use the EGR. It will really help keep your combustion temps down.

Do you want burnt valves and rings? The EGR-less 92'* already suffer from this. Running Nitrous will make it worse.

Keep the EGR.

wild man, yes this will be a track only trailer car.

willren, i really don't think you are understanding the question. i need to use the alluminum manifold so i can install the direct port system. the alluminum manifold does not support the EGR system, so... even though i do not want to i am forced to remove the system. is there a way to adapt the EGR system to the early alluminm manifold? are there any mods IE vlaves or rings of a different material i can use instead?

If it'* race only, then an EGR system would rarely ever be functioning anyway. It'* not like the engine will be driving from track to track, will it? I don't think you need it.

Marik,

What about using the LN3 manifold? It'* aluminum and comes with EGR in a pretty simple setup..though it does take the EGR from the rear manifold, not the front.

EGR is kinda a non-issue on a track car. It doesn't even work during PE (the ecm shuts it off) It can be there, function at idle and part throttle, without hurting WOT. If you do remove it, then the low to mid rpm fuel and timing need to be adjusted towards the rich side to keep the combustion chamber temps down (i.e. do the EGR'* jobs)

There'* enough runner showing to do port injection from the top as well with the LN3 manifold...bit of a tight squeeze between the injectors and valve covers, but still do-able. Or, you could come in from the intake valley side and bring the feed line out on below the alternator. (near the PCV valve)