Ya, I keep telling myself that I'm going to just be happy with the 3.6 setup, but then you read about how easy other mods are....man, so addicting.

Amen to that. I thought an L67 would be just fine in the Regal, but then I got the itch and said while you're in there, get headers on, and if you have headers, get a 3.4, CAI, supporting mods, easy right? Then I started tuning and was like whoa, this is neat. Now I'm itching really bad to get a die grinder again so I can start porting these heads.

Last time I ported the heads on the old Series 1 3800, I nearly maxed out the stock injectors N/A. Ran fast as hell compared to stock.

I consider that a mechanical/maintenance issue, meaning the knock is cause by something and not a computer glitch etc. While our interpretations may be slightly different, we seem to agree about what can/can't cause knock.

I got to thinking about this. I think I see where you are coming from, knock is bad regardless if it is "false" or not" It still causes PCM to reduce performance. Even if this knock isn't harmful within the engine it is still bad because it reduces performance. I guess I should be more clear, I dont think I was getting any knock that is harmful, but knock that is degrading in performance and outside of the engine.

Right.. say you had real knock and chipped a piston, that'* very bad. But if you had a mount go and got knock from the drivetrain rubbing body/subframe, you still have an issue because the system is robbing you of performance. In both cases, something needs to be fixed. Even if you get some knock due to poor fueling in the tune, that'* something that needs to be addressed. None of it in my mind is false, because it'* being caused by something that can be corrected.

BTW guys.. I swore I wasn't modding my Bonne. By the time I was done, I had one of everything. Literally.

S1X cam, 1.8 rockers, upgraded pushrods, Stage 3 heads, titanium retainers, hardened valve locks, 130# springs, timing set, electric water pump, 2 built transmissions, Gen V, intercooler, ported LIM, newer style alt, braided fuel lines, prj fuel rails, fuel press gauge, N* tb, 4in intake, LQ4 maf, aluminum oil pan, oil press kit, 2.9" pulley (have down to 2.5"), 8 rib belt setup, custom wiring harness, headers, exhaust cutout, wide band 02, wss defeat, urethane center and end link sway bushings, drag bags, chevy pickup underhood light in trunk (20 foot cord), HU swap out with hard drive keg, homelink, heated seats, flow detect for intercooler, 3 gauge hud pods, different fog light switch, IC and WP switches, light up "pontiac" tail light....I'm sure i"ve missed some stuff. Please...tell me about goin further than planned

This is also why I spent two weeks straight on the Regal. Nothing but eat, sleep, work and Regal. In those two weeks..it' changed a lot.

So going back to my knock issue. I read on grandprixforums.net (same one your at billboost) that my headers could be finding their way up into the tunnel. Could some poly mounts make the engine not move as much thus eliminating this? Or is this a motor mount issue?

Poly mounts will definately firm things up and keep them from moving as much. Could be the answer. Do you have pics of how close your O2 is to the side of the tunnel?

I'll get em when I can. I believe it is clearing though. Something I noticed about these speed daddy headers were they really do sit high up in the tunnel, there is no bend at all in them. The sound that im hearing is no way the O2 sensor when going in reverse and the headers in tunnel seems a lot more reasonable.

Time to get out the reciprocating saw once again, those dang mounts...

Which mounts?