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They FINALLY arrived......

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Old 11-01-2007, 10:53 PM
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Oregon engine prices are higher due to our 'green State'. We remove each engine and drain all fluids (more labor=more cost) but it'* still cheaper than buying a cheap motor from elsewhere and paying shipping for a motor you can't personally inspect.

There'* nothing to 'port' on a bottom end. It will remain stock until after the intercooler and possible cam. My cam will be custom from the ground up, but will be modelled in a fashion after INTENSE'* blower cams for the S2 with respect to duration.
Old 11-02-2007, 07:09 AM
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Quick question on the injectors... you calculated that the current need is less than the S2 injector. Now that you have them and the motor will be getting done, do you fore see a need for the extra fueling from even larger injectors?
Old 11-02-2007, 08:30 AM
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I've outflowed my stock 29lb injectors at 4bar which runs them at 33lb.

I selected the 32lb injectors to run at 3.5bar producing 34.5lb flow.
I can still jack them up to 4bar if I choose and get them to flow at 37 lb, or:

Move to the 36lb S2 L67 injector at 3bar. I split the difference for the time being. So if I need more flow (assuming I achieve my goal of running intercooled on a ported top end with a cam or even sticking with my 1.8 rockers), I have the ability to continue to increase flow at the turn of a screw or a quick phone call (or a short trip to FIE).

FYI, 36lb injectors will flow at 41.5 if you run them at 4bar.
Old 11-02-2007, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
FYI, 36lb injectors will flow at 41.5 if you run them at 4bar.
Good to know..My S2 needed more flow with my plans and the 42'* I have will flow to my needs.

Edit.. can you please explain the bar difference. I know you did to me on the phone once and it was very good and interesting info that would benefit others as well.
Old 11-02-2007, 07:04 PM
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1 Bar (barimetric pressure) = 14.7 psi
3.5 Bar = 51.5 psi
4.0 Bar = 58.8 psi

My adjustable 4.0 Bar regulator can actually go to a little over 60 psi which is about what the fuel pump produces.
I have mine set now at 54 psi key off and primed. The recommendation for my performance adjustable regulator is 56-58 psi. That is about 4-6 psi higher than stock to account for the 4-6 psi higher boost levels.
I still run rich at about 11 AFR WOT but normal at 14.6 at idle or cruise.

It'* easy to confuse AFR to 1 Bar since the numbers are almost identical.

Bill, I think you are lean at 46 psi key off and primed.
Old 11-02-2007, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
Why do you need the replacement engine to have good compression if you're going to work on it?
I would think Will would want an engine with good compression because... I believe the compression test is more to ensure a solid block since he is using his old heads and what not. It would suck to go to a junkyard and pick out a new looking block to find out there is a hairline crack in a water jacket.
Old 11-02-2007, 08:03 PM
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Buyer be ware when you are trying to save a few hundred dollars.

He should have the general protection of a 30 day guarantee on anything sold in the US by any vendor. It'* law.
Old 11-02-2007, 08:28 PM
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I have a 90-day warrantee on the motor, and certified oil pressure and compression. The engine was in running condition when pulled from the donor (95 Buick Riviera).

I made a deposit on the motor today, and will pick it up early next week.
Old 11-02-2007, 08:42 PM
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All right Bill
Now it'* time to get down to business.
Old 11-05-2007, 09:33 PM
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Pardon me if this is ignorant or has been answered before, but why do you strive to run your engine at exactly 14.7:1 AFR? Car manufacturers today only run at 14.7 because it produces the lowest combination of the regulated exhaust emissions. (Read: not the lowest level of some of the gases when measured individually, but the lowest point when the gases are averaged together.)



This is the best chart I could find in a hurry. It doesn't show NOx and CO2, but the NOX curve is roughly at its lowest point at 14.7 as well. Obviously, the more efficient you make combustion, the more CO2 you produce, and its curve is highest at 14.7. (HC + O2 = H2O + CO2.) One of my instructors at trade school often said, "The only reason anything has changed on cars since the 70s is fuel economy and emissions!" He'* mostly right, too.

Anyways, where was I going with this? Oh yeah, peak power is actually gained at a richer air/fuel ratio, around 12.5/13:1. A richer ratio is also an excellent KR killer too. Many racers run at 12 to 1, and most powersports products (Seadoos, ATVs, etc) run a similar ratio too.

Is it for fuel economy? Or is it because we all use the factory PCM to control our engines, which still wants to run 14.7:1?

Not trying to insult anyone, by the way, or step on any toes, just trying to stimulate some interesting conversation.


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