switchin from 3.5 to 3.4
#4
PopaDopaDo
True Car Nut
3.4 is in the grey area, some can and some can't which is why you need to keep an eye on KR when you try it.
Have you any other mods? Ported Exhaust manifolds, Rockers...?
Have you any other mods? Ported Exhaust manifolds, Rockers...?
#6
Senior Member
True Car Nut
What timing do you run right now at WOT at the top of 1st and second? What KR do you run at the top of 2nd and bottom of 3rd?
If your timing stays around 15* and your KR is around 0, You are safe to drop down. If not, fix the other issues before dropping down
I could run a 3.4 with no problem on my 98, 3.3 with minimal KR. However on my 2000, It does not like the 3.4 at all.
If your timing stays around 15* and your KR is around 0, You are safe to drop down. If not, fix the other issues before dropping down
I could run a 3.4 with no problem on my 98, 3.3 with minimal KR. However on my 2000, It does not like the 3.4 at all.
#7
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wickliffe, Ohio
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have 0 KR with the 3.5" I would say it is safe to drop to a 3.4" . Keep scanning though, you didn't mention which plugs you are using but I'lm guessing they are 1 heat range colder.
Ed
Ed
#8
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
It goes without saying that you'll run PREMIUM fuel only (91 octane minimum, 92 or 93 preferred), you'll keep watching that KR number, ESPECIALLY on hot/humid days.
Scanning for KR on a cool day or even an 80 degree day is pointless. Hot days can kill you.
Scanning for KR on a cool day or even an 80 degree day is pointless. Hot days can kill you.
#10
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by caseball2051
they are 104s, 1 range colder i believe.
i always run 93 octane, everytime.
i always run 93 octane, everytime.