Okay, I'm looking at a project in the near future (mid october) to put an l26 mani on my lesabre. when I re-did the lower intake gaskets a while back (about two months or so it seems), the throttle body gasket never quite sealed up nicely against the throttle body on the upper intake.
I was looking at my motor the other day, thinking about doing this mod, when I suddenly found my excuse to go ahead with it - the gap has widened to about 1mm of gap along one edge of my throttle body.
i was pretty excited. which seems strange, but i've been looking for some reason to do this modification to my car, and this was nothing short of perfect! loss of vacuum and the possibility in the future of leaking coolant straight into the intake.
how wonderful!

anyway, I'm gearing up for the l26 intake (again, prolly mid october, funds related) and i had a few questions, as many things will be getting done at the same time.

1. my current main concern: am i going to have any heat related problems with running my plug wires over the aluminum manifold?

2. how much do you guys typically pay for mobil 1? our local sams club has it for about 24 bucks for 6 quarts.

3. how long do you guys run mobil 1 in your motor?

4. the l26 is a little longer on the TB side (the neck that leads to the TB). I don't have my numbers in front of me, but it made the angle a little larger (to about 7 and a half degrees, if i recall), and sticks out some 3 and a half centimeters longer on the far side. Throw in an adaptor plate (not sure how thick it'* going to be, but we're going to make it as thin as possible). when it'* all said and done, i'm now two inches or more further to the right in the engine compartment with my throttle body. so... gut the stock airbox, or try a custom intake that would have to be somewhat short? i'll be going K&N either way, which leads to question 5...

5. where do you recommend purchasing K&N'* from, that doesn't jack you on cost?

6. if we do a custom intake, instead of gutting the stock box, do we go with a shorter cone (maybe 7"?) and a longer tube, or a longer cone (maybe 9"?) with a shorter tube?

7. With real world use, how long does the K&N go before you need to do the cleaning/recharge?

8. is the gatorback belt really worth it? it costs more than twice as much...

I think that might be it for now.
except for the begging. here it goes: if anyone has a spare (yeah, i know, i know) throttle body from a 96+ laying around, would they be willing to part with it to help develop the adaptor? i've been trying to find one at a junkyard (doesn't seem like it should be *that* hard), but haven't been successful yet...

but anyhew, i'll keep you guys posted on what'* going on. which probably won't be too much before mid october. except the adaptor. i'd like to have that done up ahead of time to make sure it all goes smooth. 2 days, in and out. max. that'* the plan. and i'll have my backup car there just in case.

1. No, the SSEi'* run them over the lower intake manifold, below the nosedrive. Just use wire loom to help protect them from shorting out.

2. Shop around. Try Kmart or Wal-Mart.

3. 5000 miles with K&N oil filter. This has been tested to be VERY safe beyond 10k miles.

4. Rig a FWI after relocating the Evap canister.

5. The web. There'* a couple places that don't even charge shipping, and are significantly lower than buying locally. Try google.

6. The longer tube will help develop laminar flow. Use the K&N RX-4750 filter. It'll allow your IAT to be mounted in the filter, has a good base for mounting a heat shield, and has HUGE surface area for a filter that'* only 6" long. (8" with the flange).

7. 100k miles, unless you live in a dusty area. I clean mine twice a year regardless.

the place i've gotten my k&n'* was ajusa.com, or maybe aj-usa.com, i don't remember. but i got a rubber cap universal cone for about $36, and a x-stream flow univeral for about $55. free shipping, i was quite happy to find them!

word. and thanks for the move. started out with the intentions of being completely 92-99, but got a little carried away

with a custom intake, will my IAT stretch that far, or do I need to do some splicing to add some extra wire in there? prolly, guessing from what i was looking at the other day. does anywhere have a 24" lead with the proper connector on it so I don't have to cut in to my wiring?

p.*. froogle is good too of course, it'* really still google, but narrows it down to prices for products

www.4filters.com

You will have the battery disconnected when you do the intake (I hope) so thats a good time to extend the IAT wires, cut in the middle and solder in some extra lead. Use heat shrink or good electrical tape to insulate, you will also want some longer convaluted tubing to protect the harness.

ps. BonneMe'* link is a good price for a rx-4750 ($60), I just bought one 2 weeks ago for $70cdn.

yeah, i did a froogle and came up with ajusa (before i saw the person who posted it above) for 55.25 with free shipping. not too shabby in my book. its a good looking filter too...

anyhew, my main concern with the intake is again, that my new upper intake/TB will not leave me very much room to fab up a good intake design. not sure i want to do a canister relocation (who was it that did that, allmachtige?), but I guess once the new UIM is on there, we'll just have to figure out what'* best.

anyone know where i can pick up a spare l36 TB to work with?

oh, and is the gatorback worth the extra money on a N/A car? i don't have to worry about slipping on that supercharging thingy mabob

My personal opinion is that the Gatorbacks ARE worth the money, but only IF you run a smaller pulley on that belt path. Like the SC pulley or the Alternator pulley. This is where the Gatorback will excel.