From what I remember I filled up at the usual Mobil station with 93 octane 2 days before, went to my friend'* place, drove down his road, hit a bump I thought maybe jarred something loose, went to the movie and had no power. On the way home I filled up at a different BP station, drove him home with slightly more power, and finally yesterday it seemed to have restored to normal timing. Still KR at high RPMS and when I initially floor it, but again...another problem.

Where would a crazy torque management setting come into play? What are the possibilities? I'm also wondering, would all false KR show up on the scantool?

False KR is when the knock sensors pick up a noise it thinks is knock that isnt actual knock. It will still show up as KR it just wont be from actual detonation. The PCM has no idea if its real or not, it just knows that the knock sensors are saying it hears knock and so it will pull timing and will continue to pull timing until the knock sensor says it doesnt hear it any more.

UPDATE::

Messed with the TPS a bit, dunno why...but was just making sure I had .6v at idle and almost 4.3 at WOT (I did the TPS mod long ago). After that I took the car out and beat on it some. She was a beast once I got her on a long backroad. Then I took a left turn onto another road, got to about 35ish and stomped it...it didn't even feel like the car shifted...just watched the timing go: 15, 13, 10, 6, 4, -0.5, 3, 4, 7, 9, then I let off and cried.
It had almost NO power, but I noticed absolutly 0.0 KR the whole time. Wierd I thought....

So I turn around and find another backroad and just go ape **** on the throttle and noticed 14 degrees of timing...ok thats a bit nicer I thought (and felt). Take another turn, 20mph, then BAM slam it again, 14.5 degrees. Ok nicer. Eventually it got up to 16.5 with 0.0KR until about 5500rpm when I got between .1 and 1.1 (nothing really surprising there). So I'm guessing tomarrow the timing will be back up to 18 again, which is where it should be. So it appears my computer is relearning whatever went wrong on that one throttle test. That'* not all.

Here is the real doozy: I noticed my L-trims were anywhere from -8.7 to 10.8 under normal conditions. I've never since I owned my Autotap seen the car act like this, which is much better than what I used to get (nothing under 7.0). When the long terms got as low as -8.7 I saw the short terms shoot out the expected numbers of 9.0 or something similar. Then I would see it stay within the -5.0 to 5.0 range most of the time, however whenever I floored it the long terms would ALWAYS be 11.7 and of course the short terms were the expected 0.0. Sometimes when I let off the throttle I would get the 16.4 L-trim numbers that I used to get though.

Summery:
Almost no KR entire time.
After loss of all timing the computer seems to relearn how to get back near 18 degrees.
Fuel Trims looking like they should, just about.

My belief: The car is alive.

*cough*

Scan the following during these runs

Timing
KR
MAF Frequency
injector pulsewidth
Injector dutycycle
rpm
throttle angle position
MAP
Barometric pressure

Also, check for beltslippage signs.

I did a quick run with most of those settings today and noticed at 30mph when I gave it gas the jolt of the car downshifting created 7KR, which quickly resolved to 0.0KR (timing was majorly pulled to 12 at the first jolt). From there I noticed the "Injector Pulse Width #1" setting went from 14.00mS as first and climbed to roughly 18.90mS once I neared 80mph. If I had the PC setup instead of the handheld I could show this in Excel...I'll see what I can do.

THis is kind of a wild guess, but do you think that maybe you have a loose connection somewhere and whenever you turn or hit a pothole or whatever, the connection goes bad, but then recovers? or maybe the computer is compensating for the bad connection then it recovers and thats why your timing is so off? does anyone get what im saying? idk just a thought

The first step is to put race gas in it and seeif the KR diminishes or goes away. If not its probably false KR from something hitting when you shift.

I don't know how false it could though. When I get nearly 10KR when I go WOT I'm thinking a motor mount is going bad.

Sorry, I didnt follow this. The car can pull up to 15 degrees of KR if it thinks its in a knock situation. If something is continually setting off the knock sensor the car will keep pulling timing until that situation is resolved.