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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 09-25-2004, 06:51 PM   #21
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Mine will be grey when i clean them...
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Old 09-25-2004, 06:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Mine will be grey when i clean them...
They have a greyish color to them, but nothing like in the picture. Also if you look along the sides there'* a small ridge that runs the length of the rod, probably 'left overs' from the casting. This wouldn't be there had they been shot-peened, no?
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:02 PM   #23
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The ridge in the middle? yeah i noticed that too, but they just might not smooth it out afterwards...
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:03 PM   #24
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erm...do you understand what shot-peening is?
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:05 PM   #25
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Yes, but you don't know what it looked like before the shot peening, or how they do it..

They wouldn't cast them rough...
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:11 PM   #26
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I'm not completely sure I understand what you're saying so I'll stay basic for a second

When they cast it, correct me if I'm wrong, they pour it into a mold that is two halfs split in the center. Once its cool they open it up and wala, a rod. The mark going up the side is where the two molds met.

Shot peening, from what I gather, is liken to taking a hammer and whacking on the side of it to compress the outer layer of metal. Of course its not nearly that crude and a touch more technical but its the basic idea. This takes care of any surface cracks that were beginning to form and helps keep them from spreading as easily. This would surely have 'squished' (for lack of a better term) that ridge that runs up the side as thats where most of the focus is on.

Just a thought though
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:20 PM   #27
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yes i understand the shot peening and casting, but if they're shot peened, they're cast first, then shot peened. But if there'* a fairly large ridge, then it might still be visible after being shot peened.
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
yes i understand the shot peening and casting, but if they're shot peened, they're cast first, then shot peened. But if there'* a fairly large ridge, then it might still be visible after being shot peened.
mmm...I agree with your statement but not on its application to what we're talking about. Sure a large ridge would be smaller, but the ridge doesn't look any smaller than I'd expect to see from any ole cast rod. Albeit I haven't had a lot of rods infront of me so maybe someone else can chime in on that one. But to carry on...

Since they would have obviously gotten the rod 'done' before shot peening the ridge should be at least MUCH less noticeable than a similar cast piece. I know I said 'wala, a rod' but its not quite that simple as I'm sure you know. There'* still more work that goes into it after its cast. They get it all nice and pretty for a 'stock' rod THEN go shot peen it. That means since this has a ridge I'd assume would be similar to any ole 'stock' rod, it was not shot peened.The shot peening is a last step thing. Blah, I need pics of mine recently to see though.

I dunno though, I'm just applying the portion of my brain thats hogging all the coffee...someone with experience could probably better say. But does this make sense?
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:39 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Just a question here.... Has anyone seen the ford 3.0, 3.8 and 4.0 rods? I had the chance to see a for 4.0 60* V6 Rod.... All I could say was no wonder it puked... After seeing a few GM rods, 265-268, 305, 350, 400.... Buick 3800'* and the like... I was in horror to look at that 4.0 Ford Rod... Looked so skinny.. Even the 3800 II rods have something to em... Look like good quality...

I have managed to see 1 3800 II L36 rod that snapped in 2... I have never seen anything like it.. It snapped right in the middle between the crank and the wrist pin... Just enough for the ramainder of the rod on the crank to punch 2 chunks out of the block and beat the hell out of the oil pan.. Funny though, the rod was not twisted it just broke... It looked like a clean break... Might have been a factory flaw... But even the 3800 II rods seemed beefy...

It would be interesting to see the diffrences between the L67( 1992-1995 ) and L27 rods.. Anyone have an L67 rod laying around?
*edit* added the quote

I haven't seen those rods in particular but I have noticed in comparison to some others I've seen ours seem of decent size. That is pretty wild to see a rod just make a clean snap.

Of the comparson; the pics I have of a stock l67 rod aren't great but I can't see any immediate difference between the two. I've switched between the pics for a fair amount of time comparing specific points I have a clear picture of and they all seem to match up. Now if there'* 0.01" difference I obviously can't 'see' that but as far as what is visible they seem to be the same. The only thing I completely can't compare is the smaller end as he'* got a piston still attached
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Old 09-25-2004, 07:50 PM   #30
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I'll have to agree with Jason here.

Let that sink in.

Ok, I'll lean towards BonneMeMn on this one. I do alot of metal work as part of my job. Including bead-blasting with various types of media. Including glass and metal....MEDIA. Shot-peened rods are really nothing more than a more aggressive bead-blasting treatment. Same velocity probably, as a traditional blast cabinet, but harder media, right?

Taking a ridge off of steel isn't going to happen in a process like this. Peening or blasting is a SURFACE FINISH process, not an abrasive removal process. I would fully expect casting marks to remain in some form after peening. Possibly very prominently.
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