Series II L67/ 6 speed manual conversion (Work resumes! 5-5)
#81
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In short, can't you just chop a Reatta shaft and a G6 shaft in half and weld em together?
There'* a driveshaft shop in town, and also my crazy machinist
There'* a driveshaft shop in town, and also my crazy machinist
#83
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Originally Posted by Blownville
A driveshaft shop should be able to custom make any axle you want. That is their specialty.
I think I'm going to die...the "dream drivetrain" is going to be sitting in my car, all prepped and ready for trials after like years of planning, countless hours of labor, and thousands of dollars spent, and I could start it up and shift it, but lacking the CV shafts! NOOOOOO!!!!!!
#84
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I wish I had a better update for you guys (pix) but it seems I misplaced the charger for my camera. Mmmmy bad
I know it won't help you Bonneville guys much, but I removed the base of the center console, including the radio module inside, and I've made up two brackets to mount the G6 shifter assembly. It'* a lot bigger than the Reatta shifter.
One challenge I face actually is having choice. I can pretty much put the clutch pedal, shifter, and anything else exactly where I want it to make it comfortable, easy to reach and use...like Scott at the Auto Shop put the clutch pedal for his 5 speed in his Reatta a little closer than the brake, and mentioned that RWD cars often have this. That'* cool, but I haven't really driven a RWD manual car, let alone manuals aside from a '91 F250, '92 Explorer, and my '07 Forester. I can get educated opinions from others, but will such a position be right for me? I don't know. It doesn't help that I have the car torn down so far that I can't really check out things like that. This pertains to a lot of other things, like where exactly should I position the gauges on the pillar that I want? *shrug*. At any rate, I've got the pedals spaced pretty evenly horizontally and vertically with each other. The angle of the pad on the pedals may need to be changed (cut and rewelded) to be perfect, but that isn't a problem. The shifter is going to be pretty much where the Reatta'* was, but I'm kind of shooting in the dark on this because obviously a manual shifter moves differently from an auto shifter. I considered though that the stock auto shifter was in a pretty comfortable position to start with, with all measurements considered. Height will be about the same but probably slightly taller. When the time comes I'll have Vern of Lansing Auto Trim make me a shift boot that fits the console.
Yesterday I stopped by Crippen (closest Buick dealer to me) and ordered another G6 clutch pedal pad. Recall that I trimmed my stock brake pedal perfectly to be the same size as the G6 clutch pedal. $11.
I know it won't help you Bonneville guys much, but I removed the base of the center console, including the radio module inside, and I've made up two brackets to mount the G6 shifter assembly. It'* a lot bigger than the Reatta shifter.
One challenge I face actually is having choice. I can pretty much put the clutch pedal, shifter, and anything else exactly where I want it to make it comfortable, easy to reach and use...like Scott at the Auto Shop put the clutch pedal for his 5 speed in his Reatta a little closer than the brake, and mentioned that RWD cars often have this. That'* cool, but I haven't really driven a RWD manual car, let alone manuals aside from a '91 F250, '92 Explorer, and my '07 Forester. I can get educated opinions from others, but will such a position be right for me? I don't know. It doesn't help that I have the car torn down so far that I can't really check out things like that. This pertains to a lot of other things, like where exactly should I position the gauges on the pillar that I want? *shrug*. At any rate, I've got the pedals spaced pretty evenly horizontally and vertically with each other. The angle of the pad on the pedals may need to be changed (cut and rewelded) to be perfect, but that isn't a problem. The shifter is going to be pretty much where the Reatta'* was, but I'm kind of shooting in the dark on this because obviously a manual shifter moves differently from an auto shifter. I considered though that the stock auto shifter was in a pretty comfortable position to start with, with all measurements considered. Height will be about the same but probably slightly taller. When the time comes I'll have Vern of Lansing Auto Trim make me a shift boot that fits the console.
Yesterday I stopped by Crippen (closest Buick dealer to me) and ordered another G6 clutch pedal pad. Recall that I trimmed my stock brake pedal perfectly to be the same size as the G6 clutch pedal. $11.
#85
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I kicked some butt tonight and I can say I'm done with the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I'm using my little bro'* camera and I'm going to jack up the image quality a notch next time
The master cylinder through the firewall. It can be spun around and adjusted to get the reservoir inlet and the outlet to the slave cylinder just right. My idea for sealing it up is to get an old tractor tube and cut it just right, then fasten it to the firewall. Keep drafts, water, and fumes out
The pedal arrangement seems to have turned out pretty well. They're close to where they will be when the car is operational. The brake is wearing a G6 clutch pedal pad that came with the G6 clutch pedal, and the clutch pedal is wearing a brand new, well, G6 clutch pedal pad. They're slightly different but good-e-nuffer for at least the time being. The angle of which the pedal itself faces you is different between the clutch and the brake, and the clutch may be an inch or two too close to the driver, but I can have Mario cut and weld it to my liking later.
I'm pretty satisfied with how my brackets came out. I painted my brackets and did a quick spray of all the bare surfaces from my cutting.
The master cylinder through the firewall. It can be spun around and adjusted to get the reservoir inlet and the outlet to the slave cylinder just right. My idea for sealing it up is to get an old tractor tube and cut it just right, then fasten it to the firewall. Keep drafts, water, and fumes out
The pedal arrangement seems to have turned out pretty well. They're close to where they will be when the car is operational. The brake is wearing a G6 clutch pedal pad that came with the G6 clutch pedal, and the clutch pedal is wearing a brand new, well, G6 clutch pedal pad. They're slightly different but good-e-nuffer for at least the time being. The angle of which the pedal itself faces you is different between the clutch and the brake, and the clutch may be an inch or two too close to the driver, but I can have Mario cut and weld it to my liking later.
I'm pretty satisfied with how my brackets came out. I painted my brackets and did a quick spray of all the bare surfaces from my cutting.
#86
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Looking good.
The clutch pedal angle might need some adjustment, like you said. Then again though, if it has a lot of travel (like every clutch I've used), it might be a good compromise as it is, since the angle will change as it rotates toward the firewall.
The clutch pedal angle might need some adjustment, like you said. Then again though, if it has a lot of travel (like every clutch I've used), it might be a good compromise as it is, since the angle will change as it rotates toward the firewall.
#89
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Things are on hold for a short while. My daily driver, my '07 Subaru Forester (which I bought new) was like totalled a couple weeks ago, so I've been messed up from that (not physically, I wasn't hurt) having to deal with my insurance company and convincing them to total it, getting a rental, and a bunch of bs.
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Progress: I've been a little disgruntled with cars lately since my Forester was like totaled, but I'm back at it. I got this done last night...it came out pretty well. The shifter is mounted firmly despite the crapload of washers and from what I can tell, is in a really good spot as far as ergonomics go. I'm pretty sure the stock G6 shift cables will reach.