the big square one or circle one...if its the big square thats where the air goes into the manifold...the circle is boost bypass

Those look like PCV to me.

If no one else can come up with a definate answer, just do the water test. Set the SC like it would sit in the car, put a water hose up to the port you want to know the exit of, turn the water on, and look around for the huge water leak. I had to do this on both my LIM and UIM for varying reasons.

EDIT: You are going to pull the LIM from the motor before you chop it right?

I missed something.....what'* being chopped here?

The two round holes are PCV. Don't IC them, they must pass through the IC uninterrupted, or be blocked off and add an oil cap breather. Personally, I'd simply drill the holes.

The two oval slots to each side of the outlet on the SC are for harmonic tuning (noise).

The holes along the front and rear of the manifold/sc that LOOK like they're in a straight axial line are not actually all in a line. You must measure VERY carefully, and cross measure several times diagonally to make sure you get it right.

OK so if I am getting this right only the large square opening needs to be intercooled. If so this will become just a matter of finding a fin and tube heat exchanger small enough to cover that and that only, and setting it inside a plate with all the requisite holes matching up to all the other passages. According to 3800performance.com there MAP intercooler is 2" thick, but reading up on it says that that was over engineering and that 1.5" is all the thickness needed to cool the intake charge suffeciantly, of course this information is for the SER2 motor so different ballgame. However if the outlet temps at the bottom of the SC are similar between the SER1 and SER2 L67 then 1.5" thickness should do......any help figuring this out would be great too.

see what different heat ex cost. 1" would probably make a big difference too. Remember that you cant make it too expensive.

The thing to keep in mind is "how cheap can I make it, and how can I make it do JUST what I need it to do". If you intend to market it here, that'* the key.

You are absolutely correct, that is EXACTLY what I am doing...Right now the biggest problem I am having is finding a heat exchanger that has both the inlet and outlet on the same side that is fin and tube designed not stacked plate...as it looks like a stacked plate design would REALLY hamper airflow to the intake manifold. By the way the hard part is finding all of that that has the dimensions of EXACTLY 4.5"x4.75"x1.5" plus it has to be less than a hundred bucks!!!

Im going to call around tommorow and see if anyone knows where I can find one so tiny, maby a motorcycle place??? If that gets me nowhere then I will have to look into getting one custom fabbed. If I have to do that then I will have no clue what it would end up costing, but I was thinking that the 2 most expensive items would be the heat exchanger and the plate (custom machined) to put the whole shebang inside.
I have no idea what the custom fabrication work will cost for the plate, but I do have some friends who have some friends who might be able to help me.


After that were a water pump front mount heat exchanger some hoses bolts gaskets and hardware from being done....once I get over the hurtle of finding the right heat exchanger the rest should go easy(er)

Hmm... wouldn't you want the fins to be the length of the inlet? Then have the tanks out side the air stream?

Don't rule out commercial heating and AC sources for the heat exchanger. You might have better luck there.

Just a thought, but why not try a stock tranny cooler? thats about the right size to fit under there i would think, maybe a bit of modificiation but who knows.

Also, is it possible to run freon through the lines without them freezing? or does it need to be crazy pressurized for it to be cold? I think water would heat up to fast, liquid nitrogen through the cooling veins would bring down intake temps quite sufficiently hahahaha.. mmmmmmmm i like that idea!