I could do that I suppose, since an o2 spoof is in place for the rear.

its cheaper than a new O2 sensor.

I'm not sure but I don't think that the rear 02 and front 02 are interchangeable.

Your IAC counts still seem kind of low to me. Your system is running lean (hence the code) which is why your 02s seem low at WOT. You can check the status of the 02 by watching it at idle. It should waffle low high quickly. If it stays constant or changes very slowly it has become lazy and should be replaced.

I'm still guessing a vacuum leak. What is your MAP and barometric pressure readings at idle? ((MAP-BP)*.49) should give you vacuum or boost (neg or positive).

Kyle,

Another thing you can do. Is go to your local Pep Boys or Autozone and pick up some "Electrical Contact Cleaner". From there open up the intake, or remove the MAF sensor and check the electrical contacts on them, if they are dirty spray them with the cleaner. BE CAREFUL! Because the contacts are very delicate and can break easily. Perhaps the contacts on the MAF are a bit dirty and are causing false readings. If you cant find any, I have some here.

Also I ended up buying that Snap-on MT2500 unit we were talking about on Ebay, got a really good deal on it. So hopefully I should have it by the end of the week. So if you'd like to get that case learn done on the car Im sure we can oblige, that is if Bonneville'* need case learns. I would think so since its the same motor, but the computer might be different on yours...

I was scanning my car last night going to a buddies house, and noticed my IAC'* got around 35 or so at idle when normally they are around 45-50. However my L-trims stayed between +3% - -3% , and I can easily fix the +3% as it was in a KHz range on the MAF where I have not modified the A/F yet on my Mini-Afc...

Just to give everyone a heads up, Kyle sprayed carb cleaner on every vaccum line on his motor but we couldnt find a leak. There was one area where I was a bit concerned, where the vaccum line forms a T under the supercharger snout. There was RTV and such because the T fitting was broke and it just looked like it would be a suspect for a leak, but spraying carb cleaner on it said otherwise...

Thanks,

Joel

Ok did some log runs with the Autotap, but have no clue how to upload it to my computer...

I did 2 runs, one with the 3.2 and the other with the 3.3 pulley. Both runs were from 30-100mph.
My KR was as high as 6.0 when I first went to WOT and then dropped slowly to 4.0 and once it hit 2.4. The next run I slapped the 3.3 pulley on and saw an average of .7 and I think the highest I saw was 1.3...and I swear she pulled harder. Hmmmm...wonder why!

Anyway I checked my vacuum levels with the formula you gave me Todd:
In PARK at idle:
MAP = 8.9
Barometric = 29.2
(8.9-29.2) * .49 = -9.947

In DRIVE at idle (parking brake on):
MAP = 10.9
Barometric = 29.2
(10.9 - 29.2) * .49 = -8.967

How bad is this? :?
I'm gonna start a piece at a time, so first off where can I find replacement rubber hose vacuum lines that go to and from the TB and boost selinoid??

Joel brings up an interesting point. Do I require a CASE learn at this point and would it benefit me?

YEs you need a case learn if you swapped out the pcm (IE did not flash the one in your car). Your vacuum looks good, it should be -8 to -10 at idle. One of the other places I would look for a leak is the upper intake and supercharger. It is possible when you did the rockers that it didnt seal quite right. I know my upper intake was warped so slightly that we had to use rtv around the bottom of the supercharger opening where it mated to the intake in addition to the gasket.

You mean my valve covers right? Cause that'* all we touched. I'll retorque them when I get the chance.

However I did install a ZZP coupler a month or 2 back, but I used the recommended GM gasket maker on the snout when I reinstalled.

Also, where exactly did you use RTV? All around the entire SC where it meets the intake mani?

Update: 17.5-19 degrees of ignition timing advance at WOT with 3.3 today. Average of .4KR

I think I'll have to start using the shotgun approach on this leak. So I'll start is basic maintenance and replace the SC gasket and coolent O-rings. I never took my entire SC off (just the nose while it was still on the engine) so I need some advice/tips. What to remove, how to remove, prep, etc....thanks!

Also, as Joel recommended, would it be ok to lightly spray my MAF with Electric Component Cleaner?