I found a deal to get some PEM'* for 100 bucks off of ClubGP with a $50 core. I'm gonna go for it. It is hard to find em that cheap.

That seems kinda stupid to me. I know the fans are set for a 180 t-stat and thats fine, but the PCM should at least get rid of the light for a 160 t-stat. I know the DHP does. I would be pissed if I had an aftermarket PCM and still got an SES light for t-stat. But even still, put in a 160 t-stat and it would run colder while crusing down the road. Obviously at stoplights it can only get as cold as the radiator can make it so if the fans aren't on its not gonna help, but while moving it will help. Also a fan switch is not a bad idea, then you can turn the fans on whenever you feel like it. That helps get rid of KR. Every little thing helps.

Shawn

I have run with the standard DHP and now I have the standard Intense PCM. Both have a 185 F fan turn on setting and BOTH will set the SES light if the temp does not go above 160.
The Intense stage 1 PCM is set for the 160 stat and it does disable the SES light. Scott told me that I should have been specific when I ordered it and they could have specially removed the low temp SES light trip. (I did but they missed my note :? )
I still run a drilled 180 stat but use the one holed one in winter and the 4 holed one in summer. They are both 180 but the 4 holed one runs about 10 degrees cooler.

I know the fan on points are the same, but my dad never got a light on his GTP with his standard DHP and a drilled (3 holes) 160 t-stat. Now he has it programmed for a 160 t-stat among lots of other things, but he just had a standard DHP until he changed his gearing. He would run his fan switch for 20 minutes or more at the track and get the temps down into the mid 140'* before runs (becaus it would warm up to high 150'*/low 160'* in the staging lanes) and it still never got a light.

However, even with the light, its just a light, its really not that hard to ignore. Especially when you can check it easily and make sure thats what it is. A fan switch and a 160 t-stat will do wonders for KR, thats what I would install. 20 degrees makes a big difference. Temp reduction is the key to removing KR.

Shawn

The SES code would only come on during winter and short trips with the 4 holed stat with my standard DHP. Sure it was easy to read the code and then turn it off but it was a PITA. Actually I think the temp was not getting over 155 because the trips were less than 10 minutes, so the car hardly even warmed up.
I think next summer I will experiment with drilling bigger holes in the 180 4 holer to see if I can get the temp down to 160 using my fan switch instead of 170.
I agree that it would be a good trick for race season.

dont you want the engine to get hot enough so it expands to what the engineers wanted it to be? I thought too cold was bad?

Maybe its the cold weather and short trips that did it then. The GTP never sees winter. It sits in a nice warm garage all winter. I just know we never had the problem.

I know if you really want to keep the engine cold, an electric water pump will do the trick. The GTP runs about 155 degrees crusing down the freeway. It was about 165-170 before.

Shawn

As long as it gets above 150 it'* fine.
Temps less than 190 are harder on fuel economy.....ya, like some of us care about that during race season.