hmm something to think about...

I wouldn't mind getting some bigger brakes for the bonnie. I would most likely only get them for looks though. I don't really need the step up, so why spend the extra money unless your going all out. Well thats just my $0.02.

Too late, it'* stolen. :P

A slotted or cross-drilled rotor is superior to a standard rotor, it grips the brake pad better, of course the price is that they wear a pad faster too. There are tests out there that prove a slotted/drilled rotor stops quicker than a normal rotor

F1 cars may not have slotted or drilled rotors ....but you also figure they don't have power brakes.. nor do they have to go the same distance on a set of rotors and pads a street car does. they also run HUGE disc'* ....those disc'* and pads only last 1 race... if that...also instead of just looking at the design of the disc'*.. look into the alloys and materials used for the discs.. and the caliper designs they use....if you REALLY want to get into a discussion on stopping power... look at 18 wheelers... they don't even use disc'*...

slotted and drilled rotors give up a little surface area for gas/water etc evacuation

I perfer slotted rotors because while they do give up some surface area ...they don't give up as much heat dissapation material that drilled do. ... GOOD quality drilled rotors are very resistant to cracking and chewing up rotors... the easiest way to recognize a "cheap" drilled rotor is look at the holes... the lack of chamfered edges shows a "cheap" drilled rotor that will probably crack soon


someone else also Brought up Pads... I'm very glad... I see alot of ppl putting RACE pads on street cars... theres a massive problem with this... brake pads have a heat range they are most effective ... street pads are effect from cold to a certain temperature (aka brake fad) ....the more "racey" your pads are.. the hotter they have to be to be effective ... ceramic pads fall into this catagory alot ... and when they are cold they require more force to stop (where they heat up and work properly mid braking) and in that warm up process with more pressure they tend to chew your rotors and leave deposits ( this is also the case when coming to a dead stop and holding the brakes with HOT pads)

now ofcourse theres always deviations and eceptions to the "rules of thumb"

I don't wanna discourage anyone from a brake upgrade.. just some things to think about

Projectheavytouring... What would you recomend for a quality rotor what brand name? I'm going slotted. Brembo good? any cheaper that are just as good?

power slot rotors... and EBC pads... green or red is kinda a personal decision ...if I were you and were trying to decide between red or green EBC pads... I would phone EBC and tell them your car... any power mods... wheel and tire mods, and frequent driving style/conditions... and see what they suggest.... the H body'* kinda fall right on the edge between the basic weight (aka heat produced in braking) for green and Red

I'm gonna try and hit the junkyards this winter and snag some brake parts and hopefully have the parts "formula" for H body bolt on 12inch disc upgrade..... I'm gonna look into a rear disc setup too.. but I have this feeling it'* gonna be alot of custom fab work and parts sourcing to get it right

if you drive pretty hard on alot of "quick" windy roads on a regular basis... with some power mods and larger/stickier tires... my personal suggestion would be power slot rotors, ebc Redstuff pads, GOOD high temp capability brake fluid, and stainless braided lines... the only problem you might have with the red stuff pads... is a small loss in braking for the first couple blocks when you first start out dead cold.

as for rear drums... I don't know if there are any stock alum oem drums you can swap on... although brembo may make a replacement drum for the Hbody (they did for my tercel) ... and a sub company of Power STOP (not slot) called Performance 911 used to do ALOT of rear drum "performance" shoes... maybe holler at them and see if they had/still have shoes for the Hbody