Originally Posted by willwren
PVC is commonly shaped and bent with boiling water. That'* at a temperature pretty darn close to the temps directly above the crossover pipe.
Now how are you going to make a smooth bend radius without fittings that will induce turbulence at the joints? That turbulence kills velocity.
How are you going to bend it to make the turn to the TB without having it relax later?
Check my engine bay pic. You see where the cooling duct for the SC/TB is? Mounted to the upper radiator support? It used to have more of a bend, and was mounted closer to the center (crossed over just about where the oil cap is). It relaxed to it'* current shape from heat from the front EM collector.
A soft pvc intake in a hot environment is asking for disaster. Particularly if it gets TOO hot in summer.
water boils at 215f at sea lvl if i remember correctly. the pipe would sit over 6 inches away from the front header pipe at it'* closest point. the stock exhaust has a heat shield on it. even with headers i would not worry at all. i would be surprised if the air at their closest point would get to over 175 with the hood down.
and as i'v seen members on here do they simply insulate your pipe which isn't a bad idea anyways. which you can conveniently get at home depot.
look in this pic:
you keep that black rubber from the stock intake right at the throttle body. that gives you play for when the engine moves and also lets you bend it in such a straight pipe can go into the fender wall. also i think you guys have a IAT in the black thing and it saves you from threading a hole in the pvc. that looks like the pipe would be at least 6 inches if not further away from the hot pipe. i think if that if the pipe could heat up the pvc to 215 or even close to it with the hood down you would have other things failing 1st.
and if you were to insulate the pipe i think you would golden.
i wouldn't call pvc soft even at 150f.
is my logic flawed?
$20 or less at home depot + $40 K&N= cheap fwi. and reliable as far as i can see.