Sorry I've been tied up of late.

You need the wss for magnasteer, tc, abs and to some degree the air bags (have to re read that one?)

But what I'm looking at is a normally closed relay, the circuit is on when the relay is off, so in the event of failure it would be on and the wss would still be in the cct.
swartlkk has the right diagram and is on the right track.
So all you need to do is cut the dark green wire pin #10 and the dark blue wire Pin#11 and wire the ends to the normally closed contacts of your relay. wire the relay back to your switch and when you turn on the relay you turn off the wss.

give me a few more nites I'll post some pics.

Roque has mentioned in another thread that he is now disconnecting all 4 WSS. If this is true and it allows for less computer intervention, then we should be interupting all 4 of the WSS wires at the EBCM connector.

I agree that the ONLY relay that I would use would be a normally closed relay. I still am unsure as to the actual voltage on these reference lines so that leaves the relay selection up in the air. I'm sure that you could use some low voltage micro relays to interupt the signal without any problems. This same type of relay could be used on the parking brake sensor.

Doesn't the WSS just take the different wheels speeds from all wheels and then correct for slipage?

What if you built a relay that would take the info from 1 wheel (a rear wheel) and false feed it into the other 3 sensors, or at least make the computer think that all 4 wheels are traveling at the same speed.

I think you would run into major torque management issues. The computer has so many tables in it and when you start feeding it false information you can hurt the car. I'd rather have it disabled than spoofed. The car has a yaw sensor, accelerometer, wss etc... I'm thinking if something doesnt match up, for exaple the VSS says one thing, the yaw sensors says something, and the acceleromter says something and then the wss give wrong data, bad thigns can happen. Just my opinion though, I could be wrong.

It sounded good, but I do agree. There is ALOT of stuff going on that some people have only begun to find out.

Rogue, did you ever find out if disconnecting the rear WSS helped you out?

I did about 3 things at once, unhooked the rear WSS'*, unhooked the parking brake sensor, and something else I can't remember. At the time the parking brake was not holding the car during the burnout and I think the PCM saw the rear wheels turning (the WSS were still plugged in) while the E-brake was engaged (ebrake sensor still plugged in) and it caused some funny things to happen. Not sure what was the fix but I now unplug them all when I race.

Rogue.... this might be a silly question.... but how do you do burnouts when you race?

Gear selector into manual 2.
Depress parking brake to the floor (if your parking brake isnt tight you will need to adjust it or the car wont hold) or pull your parking brake all the way up (for handheld models).
Depress parking brake into release position but do not let up or release parking brake (hand held model) but do not let down.
Stab the accelerator to the floor it should immediately shift to second and once you get to 5k rpm hold for a few seconds
Optionally you can rock the steerign wheel slightly back and forth to help the tires break loose
Once tires are warm let off the parking brake (or release the hand held model) and let the car pull you out of the burnout.
Place the gear selector into D and line up at tree.

Hey Rogue,

we only pulled the two front sensors on my car and the leveling bar at Kil Kare. What other two sensors are you all talking about? :?

The 2 rears, you werent doing extended burnouts so I don't think it affects you. I didn't pull all 4 until I was running slicks and losing timing after a burnout.