Ram air done, complete, tested. Lots of pics (not 56k)
03-21-2004, 11:16 AM
#12
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jeffrey10x2
the rule of thumb is that for every 10* of abient temp in the engine bay, you gain aprox 1% HP.
for example:
if your engine bay temp is 200* and you are making 300 HP.
then you drop the engine bay temp to 170*, you will be making aprox 9 more HP
for example:
if your engine bay temp is 200* and you are making 300 HP.
then you drop the engine bay temp to 170*, you will be making aprox 9 more HP
03-21-2004, 11:38 AM
#15
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
The Ram effect won't affect a SC much, if at all. It might be of benefit to a NA, but not SC, as there'* no way my setup can keep up with the massive volumes the SC demands. I'm just trying to positive pressure my CAI in order to make sure I don't pull engine bay heated air into it. And it does that very well, apparently 
Now I can re-do my CAI for the last time, and call the intake complete. I don't think I'll ever need to insulate the ADTR pipe. It may be to trivial at this point.
Now I can re-do my CAI for the last time, and call the intake complete. I don't think I'll ever need to insulate the ADTR pipe. It may be to trivial at this point.
03-21-2004, 12:05 PM
#16
Excellent craftmanship and idea. Bedliner coating ey ? Whoda thought ! Bug guts temporarily increase compression ratio and condence air charge 
I guess I'd cut air dam holes for clearance. Hard to park these torpedo'*. Those are probably curb scratches, our LSS just clears and the front is always further forward than I think. When I try to compensate I have the back of car sticking out in lot. I dont drive it much though. Regal is way shorter. Good effective work !
I guess I'd cut air dam holes for clearance. Hard to park these torpedo'*. Those are probably curb scratches, our LSS just clears and the front is always further forward than I think. When I try to compensate I have the back of car sticking out in lot. I dont drive it much though. Regal is way shorter. Good effective work !
03-21-2004, 12:05 PM
#17
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 6,042
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its looks neat with the scoops under the front regardless if you lowered the temps 1 degree it was a sucesss good job will we something different to work with instead of the maytag ram air set-up
03-21-2004, 01:38 PM
#18
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Halifax, Canada 91SSE / 97SSEi
Posts: 5,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow.... it really lowers those air temps doesn't it... very nice Will 
Another cheap mod that deliverys excellent results.... good stuff
Another cheap mod that deliverys excellent results.... good stuff
03-21-2004, 02:06 PM
#20
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
I fussed around with the proto scoop (still have it) for quite awhile. If you followed my production to the letter, you could prep and paint the scoops one weekend (several coats), and install the following weekend. Actual installation on an SSE or SSEi (or 98/99 SLE) is only an hour or so. So if you started cutting/drilling/coating on Friday night, you could be in business on Sunday.
I baked the scoops in between coats, and painted them warm. I got 6 coats on in 3 hours. BTW, the offset nipples have the threads cut off flush on the inside, and have JB weld on the outside (cure in the oven at 170° for an hour) then the same thing on the inside. After curing the inside for an hour, begin coating with the bedliner immediately.
I baked the scoops in between coats, and painted them warm. I got 6 coats on in 3 hours. BTW, the offset nipples have the threads cut off flush on the inside, and have JB weld on the outside (cure in the oven at 170° for an hour) then the same thing on the inside. After curing the inside for an hour, begin coating with the bedliner immediately.