I found some competition roller rockers for the Series 1. They're far from cheap but also very good quality. Here'* a little about them: 7/16 diameter adjuster screw. World-class adjuster screw and jam nut are the biggest in the business for more thread contact to ensure the lash setting stays where you put it. Each adjuster is broached for a big 3/16" socket to eliminate twisted Allen keys. Jam nuts are heat-treated alloy steel to be the lightest and toughest around. The shafts are made from 8620 steel and deep case hardened and tempered for the maximum of wear resistance and strength. They employ 2024 aluminum made to exacting specifications for tensil and yield strength. Its also used for its improved notch sensitivity, fatigue resistance, strength at elevated temperatures, chemical resistance and flexibility. Each rocker system is designed with the racer in mind. Most applications require no head modifications. All the hardware and shims necessary to bolt a rocker system on are included. The rocker arms are manufactured so that every component can be removed without damaging the rocker. This allows any damaged component or aluminum rocker body to be replaced after its cycle limit as been reached. In short these are some bad *** aluminum roller rockers. These are $550 for the Series 1. An @$$ load of cash but I'm sure they're worth the money. Surely above the performance most on here are looking for but who knows.
I'm working on cheaper prices and expect that price to be cut down significantly but this is a START.

Those better be magic for over 300 bucks. Ours are very well designed for a passenger car to begin with.......but doing a serious performance rebuild like you're doing is a whole different story.

I've already looked into the cam thing, I have a guy locally that can do it. I see them all day for the Series II so I don't see what the big deal is but it was suggested that I don't because of the computer. Which is why I went towards the rockers to pick up the lift especially when the last thing I want durring break in is to find "Oh sh#t the cam doesn't work right!". Who knows maybe there'* a qwerk in the Series I that'll keep it from allowing changes in IVO, ECO and all that. The company above is the first to respond to the dozen or so emails I sent out so I figured I'd post it. Your right though they suggested a larger valve cover and differing push rods. And as I stated this definately isn't for most out there, just info.