problems with my L67
#72
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In reference to what I posted a few posts back:
The PCM will NOT reset itself in regards to security when power is disconnected. I believe there is either a capacitor or a small ni-cad battery that powers that circuit, or it could even be flash memory. Only by leaving the key in for 10 minutes (I forget how many minutes it actually is, and it may vary by model and vehicle, but it IS a long wait) with the ignition "ON" will you reset the security on the PCM. Reason? Any "booster" will try to disconnect the battery first, and hopes that it will reset the security so they can drive off with it. No crook in their right mind is going to sit in the car for 10 mins and wait for the PCM to give the "all clear" command however. It will frustrate them. Much like it does/did the author of this post
The PCM will NOT reset itself in regards to security when power is disconnected. I believe there is either a capacitor or a small ni-cad battery that powers that circuit, or it could even be flash memory. Only by leaving the key in for 10 minutes (I forget how many minutes it actually is, and it may vary by model and vehicle, but it IS a long wait) with the ignition "ON" will you reset the security on the PCM. Reason? Any "booster" will try to disconnect the battery first, and hopes that it will reset the security so they can drive off with it. No crook in their right mind is going to sit in the car for 10 mins and wait for the PCM to give the "all clear" command however. It will frustrate them. Much like it does/did the author of this post
#73
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Originally Posted by sandrock
In reference to what I posted a few posts back:
The PCM will NOT reset itself in regards to security when power is disconnected. I believe there is either a capacitor or a small ni-cad battery that powers that circuit, or it could even be flash memory. Only by leaving the key in for 10 minutes (I forget how many minutes it actually is, and it may vary by model and vehicle, but it IS a long wait) with the ignition "ON" will you reset the security on the PCM. Reason? Any "booster" will try to disconnect the battery first, and hopes that it will reset the security so they can drive off with it. No crook in their right mind is going to sit in the car for 10 mins and wait for the PCM to give the "all clear" command however. It will frustrate them. Much like it does/did the author of this post
The PCM will NOT reset itself in regards to security when power is disconnected. I believe there is either a capacitor or a small ni-cad battery that powers that circuit, or it could even be flash memory. Only by leaving the key in for 10 minutes (I forget how many minutes it actually is, and it may vary by model and vehicle, but it IS a long wait) with the ignition "ON" will you reset the security on the PCM. Reason? Any "booster" will try to disconnect the battery first, and hopes that it will reset the security so they can drive off with it. No crook in their right mind is going to sit in the car for 10 mins and wait for the PCM to give the "all clear" command however. It will frustrate them. Much like it does/did the author of this post
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BUT...he DID leave his key in the ignition in the "on" position for well over 10 mins. Remember, he came back to a dead battery because he left his ignition on. So yes, it IS VATS related. But there isn't anything wrong with the system, except that somehow it detected what it thought was an attempt at stealing the car, hence the "lockout" of the fuel pump.
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The PCM will NOT reset itself in regards to security when power is disconnected. I believe there is either a capacitor or a small ni-cad battery that powers that circuit, or it could even be flash memory
The ONLY secutiy that doesn't reset is in the BCM (ie-radio), that'* also why the PCM shuts the car down. At initial start-up the PCM does its cycling. The security IS NOT in PCM its in the BCM...
So disable the security in the PCM (as I have explained before), and issue solved! The security reset (key) doesn't always work once you have modified/swapped to a different engine/setup.
Now if I confused anyone:
BCM controls security-DOES NOT reset when power is lost
PCM shuts car down because BCM says so.And the PCM will reset when power is lost-
#77
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Originally Posted by 13secGTP
The PCM will NOT reset itself in regards to security when power is disconnected. I believe there is either a capacitor or a small ni-cad battery that powers that circuit, or it could even be flash memory
The ONLY secutiy that doesn't reset is in the BCM (ie-radio), that'* also why the PCM shuts the car down. At initial start-up the PCM does its cycling. The security IS NOT in PCM its in the BCM...
So disable the security in the PCM (as I have explained before), and issue solved! The security reset (key) doesn't always work once you have modified/swapped to a different engine/setup.
Now if I confused anyone:
BCM controls security-DOES NOT reset when power is lost
PCM shuts car down because BCM says so.And the PCM will reset when power is lost-
#78
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I would say that more people would have access to a resistor or another key rather than the ability to reprogram the PCM. I know I have no way of editing the PCM. A resistor is a few cents at an electronics store. It seems like bad advice to first say to edit the PCM rather than going a much less expensive, and much more likely route of a resistor in the line.
However when taking on a swap by yourself you should have access to reprog your own PCM! Therefore PCM work would be free!!! And how many times has somebody asked the thread starter to GET A SCANNER? A few bucks more and he'll have a tuner-your right tho-thats "bad advice"
I'm tired of hearing "bad advice" over here. Most of you have don't have a clue how to do a swap yourselves. Bad advice is something that either doesn't work, causes more problems, or damages a vehicle. Hrm.. don't think what I've said falls into ANY of that..
I'm done-figure it out yourselves.
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Originally Posted by 13secGTP
I would say that more people would have access to a resistor or another key rather than the ability to reprogram the PCM. I know I have no way of editing the PCM. A resistor is a few cents at an electronics store. It seems like bad advice to first say to edit the PCM rather than going a much less expensive, and much more likely route of a resistor in the line.
However when taking on a swap by yourself you should have access to reprog your own PCM! Therefore PCM work would be free!!! And how many times has somebody asked the thread starter to GET A SCANNER? A few bucks more and he'll have a tuner-your right tho-thats "bad advice"
I'm tired of hearing "bad advice" over here. Most of you have don't have a clue how to do a swap yourselves. Bad advice is something that either doesn't work, causes more problems, or damages a vehicle. Hrm.. don't think what I've said falls into ANY of that..
I'm done-figure it out yourselves.
But, yeah, if he bought a tuner, that would be ideal. In fact, a very good idea since you're going to need to make alot of small adjustments.
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I didn't mean to raise your feathers there. I know alot more than you seem to think.
If Brian T or a few others have had posted in here with MUCH more knowledge than myself (about this particular subject) I would never have posted. Where I come from its second nature to have a tuner+scanner(wideband, ICCU, AFC,a-tap, ect). So it gets even more frustrating for me when I'm trying help a situation and would've been all fixed by know if he only had a tuner
-Word to the wise-and this applies to EVERYONE, if you are swapping an engine(or top swap) into a car that didn't originally come in that car-GET A TUNER. And also at 12second power level. OTS PCMs are descent to ~13.0 normally
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07-19-2004 03:39 PM