i have considered "Raising" the port angle to give the air a more direct shot at the back of the valve in the final build
I sent an email, in regards to this project to Outlawengineering.com
WoW! talk about fast response!
You guys are nuts! I mean that in the best of ways. The twin engine Cutlass is too much! Talk about a double-edged sword!
Send a gasket over here and we'll see what we can do. We use a standard 1/4" thick composite, but we can certainly stack them to whatever thickness you may need. Just place another gasket between the spacers for now. I think we can fit you in for ~$100.
The composite will be fine, we run other spacers that have coolant passing through. I would suggest bypassing the coolant through the LIM if you can. With coolant going through the manifold, it will still get to ~180 degrees F.
now this represents and interesting idea...dep on how thick exactly the spacers have to be, you would have to use some paper gaskets between the seperate 1/4inch plates (like bolt a stack together with a couple 4-40 screws and then put it on the engine...or maybe since you'd have to get two sets of LIM gaskets, just stack 4 of em...
:P lol i almost might be better off with using 3 oem replacment gaskets and two 1/4 inch aluminum pieces...use the gaskets as the phenolic insulators...of course this provides packaging/instalation problems and possibility of more leaks
I hope i can find someone to give me an estimate on an actual 1/2 inch phenolic material to have the spacers made from.
what are some of your opinions?
just go with some ~ 1/2 inch thick aluminum spacers and the two LIM gaskets "acting" as phenolic insulators or should i see about some 1/2 phenolic material...what do you think would be the best, would the aluminum be that much less efficient than the phenolic that it would benifit to any large degree? maybe if i did remove the coolant passages from the intake (I have looked at the room available for running dedicated reverse cooling lines (AN
from the front cover to the head coolant port and then into the blockseperate AN lines and use a thin blockoff plate at the W/P or and external mounted W/P) this would let the phenolics do their job better and i bet you could get U/LIM temps nearly ambient
The other option is to go farther than just making my sheet alum UIM for the L36 LIM, and make the whole damn mess from sheet aluminum, i have acess to a Tig and have a bridgport, so i could do it...but i'd like to do it using as many factory parts as possible to keep costs down. (as well as to keep from spending 30+ hrs on an intake)