performance upgrades
#11
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Ceramic PAINT won't do anything for you. See that red paint in the link I gave you? It was gone in two days.
You need this for a DIY coating:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2160...t-Coating.html
Use that product or nothing. It'* best to spray it on. Brush as a last option.
You need this for a DIY coating:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2160...t-Coating.html
Use that product or nothing. It'* best to spray it on. Brush as a last option.
#12
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
After that, and before nothing else, you need:
1. Actron CP9110 scantool with GM cartridge (ebay).
2. Custom scantool cable by slug (member here).
3. Fuel pressure gauge compatible with fuel injected GM fuel rails.
1. Actron CP9110 scantool with GM cartridge (ebay).
2. Custom scantool cable by slug (member here).
3. Fuel pressure gauge compatible with fuel injected GM fuel rails.
#13
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Originally Posted by willwren
Ceramic PAINT won't do anything for you. See that red paint in the link I gave you? It was gone in two days.
You need this for a DIY coating:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2160...t-Coating.html
Use that product or nothing. It'* best to spray it on. Brush as a last option.
You need this for a DIY coating:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2160...t-Coating.html
Use that product or nothing. It'* best to spray it on. Brush as a last option.
#14
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
If you search on my posts, you'll see how that coating holds up long-term under abuse. Nothing else will hold up that you can apply yourself.
If you can't do it right in the time or budget (or tools) you have, don't even waste money on paint. It won't hold up to the exhaust temps from a supercharged engine.
You WILL need exhaust manifold gaskets even if there are none installed on the car now. Make sure you get no coating or rust between the flanges and cylinder heads.
I can also tell you that you will love and hate your car at times while you head out on this Series 1 Perforamance road. And you may hate it more than you love it.
Good luck. Been there, done that.
EDIT:
The number one rule for performance in Series 1 power that I can give you is this:
EXHAUST ALL METHODS OF MECHANICAL TUNING POSSIBLE BEFORE RESORTING TO PCM TUNING......OLD school.
If you do anything other than that, you will chase your tail.
If you can't do it right in the time or budget (or tools) you have, don't even waste money on paint. It won't hold up to the exhaust temps from a supercharged engine.
You WILL need exhaust manifold gaskets even if there are none installed on the car now. Make sure you get no coating or rust between the flanges and cylinder heads.
I can also tell you that you will love and hate your car at times while you head out on this Series 1 Perforamance road. And you may hate it more than you love it.
Good luck. Been there, done that.
EDIT:
The number one rule for performance in Series 1 power that I can give you is this:
EXHAUST ALL METHODS OF MECHANICAL TUNING POSSIBLE BEFORE RESORTING TO PCM TUNING......OLD school.
If you do anything other than that, you will chase your tail.
#15
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Wren, what paint brand was that?
because i used 1200 stuff from advance auto on m CAT and down pipe and the rest of the exhaust and its still there on my SE.
because i used 1200 stuff from advance auto on m CAT and down pipe and the rest of the exhaust and its still there on my SE.
#17
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Originally Posted by willwren
Adding hp to the Series 1 has an interesting side-effect. For every ONE horsepower you add, you will add about 1.5 ft/lbs of torque.
I know what your getting at but others may not.
#18
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Then why didn't you explain it if you knew what I was getting at?
The Series 1 L67 develops all it'* torque at a VERY low RPM making the car very difficult to drive as you add power.
The Series 1 L67 develops all it'* torque at a VERY low RPM making the car very difficult to drive as you add power.