Well.......2 LIM'* later and I finally got her done. Yeah, that'* right..... I said two. The one I bought from Morad looked like he had it tanked. The casting was beautiful........and I managed to muck her up. My dimension came out to .930 on a couple of ports and I decided that was too much. So I went to the local boneyard and picked another one up. More expensive(30. to be precise) and ALOT uglier than Ed'*. :( Put it this way. It is definitely better to practice on one 1st. By the third port on the first one I had a good system going. Here'* some pics and brief details.

Pics of 2nd LIM ........NASTY!!!




Next I put layout fluid.........er..primer(no layout fluid available) sprayed some primer around the port


Next using the "centroid" of the port I first measured out the widest dimension of the port and made two marks.


I then did the same thing top to bottom. These to steps help you to verify the centroid of the port. IMO.


Next was trying to figure out a square reference port. I decided to use the injector port side "bottom" of the LIM. See the picture and you'll note where the square is held against the LIM. I then scribed a line up the side to side marks I made.

Note here my widest measurement on one bank of the ports was already .910. 10 thou over info I received from Will Wren stating in his experience on that the head ports he measured were 0.9 x 1.900. The other bank were at .900. So keep that in mind when grinding. Will'* measurements were on the cylinder heads, not the LIM ports.

Here is a pic showing the layout marks. Unfortunately it is not so clear because I didn't take these pics for this sequence until I was done


Time to start porting. Using the carbide bit pictured later I started to grind up to the layout marks. STOPPING and MEASURING as I went so as to make sure not to go over the .9 x 1.9 head size. Of course mt layout marks were right on but....measure twice, then cut. DO IT AGAIN and AGAIN!!!! When I was about .007-.010 away , I then filed up to the lines(finished measurement) to keep the ports straight.

One done.


One done. Pic2


Most of the material came out of lower left and upper left corners. A note about castings here. The one I got from Morad was "beatifully" poured. The second one had a bump in each port down the lower left that stuck out about 3/16". There was also a "seam" running down the runners that didn't match. Sorry no pics. The LIM I received from MOrad had none of those issues. Just a toss of the dice. Also the ports on one bank (2nd LIM) also seemed to have a nick on each one in the same spot of each port on the profile of the port . This maked measuring and squaring up the port scary.

I believe it was much more a big PITA to "smooth" out the runners than do the porting. Some pics of finished runners.



Some tools I used.


Note the flexible attachment I had for my dremel. Made control IMO much better. Also had dial calipers, file, gasket cookie w/ rt. angle die grinder. Compressed air and various dremel bits. The pic of these two did 99% of the work though. I like the small radius on the carbide bit I found at my local hardware store. Was good for getting the radius at the corners.


Unfortunately, I won't be able to give a butt dyno of this mod alone. Will be installing this at the same time as my other mods. See General chat http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...asc&highlight=.

Good luck to all that try this. Research all porting posts diligently.

Looks good. Zilla would be proud.

I just got off the phone with jr's3800, and we spoke again about his gains.

HOLD OFF on the other mods. Delay them for a week or two. Put the LIM on by itself.

Hey Will, Wondered how long before I'd hear from ya. Why do you want me to wait? Just wondering. Hoped to tear her down just once. Figured it would be easier to install PEM'*(which I'm still waiting on), when I got her down to the heads. You're thoughts? PM me if necessary.

It won't be any easier or difficult to do the PEM'* later. They're unrelated in the teardown.

Do the LIM by itself and consider yourself the 3rd ZM test car. I want your seat of the pants dyno impressions on the LIM alone. Partly for my own curiousity (I'm not an L36 owner), and mostly for the benefit of the other L36'* here.

The ZM LIM was based on what I learned on the L67'*. I want to KNOW that it'* what I think it is on the other engines.

O.K... per your arm twisting. Prob won't get to it until this weekend. Will change out the UIM with APN kit and BB stove pipe at the same time as well. I'm not sure gains would be comparable as I don't have a shaved TB and can't seem to find anyone who I'd trust to do it......................................... Figured I'd give it one more shot.
For the sake of posterity(whatever that means). I will do it. Expect some PMs though. I may need some quick help. Pissant stuff like what fluids to drain, easiest way to go about it. etc. I've saved many posts so I won't try to bug you too much unless I run into a big problem. As a quick shopping guide what should I go and buy to be prepared for this? By that I mean other than hard parts? I have those already.

Everyone......head'* up. Going on a totally stock car with just a mild shift kit.

I'm wanting to verify this

Is ".9 x 1.9 head size" a good measurement to go by if desired or it'* critical that I match the LIM to MY heads?

I'm guessing yes but just asking

Yes, I'd go with those dimensions. For the L36.

where did you get your carbide tips? and what other tools did you use for this? I'm hitting the junkyard Saturday and i would like to take a crack at this saturday afternoon.


James

Tools I used are in the above post and pics. The carbide tip I bought is from a local true value store. The name of the brand is Forney. Made in Germany. Cheaper than dremel bits. Look for it where they keep their die grinder accessories. The drum sander I used was the smallest one dremel makes. I also boght it from the true value. Sears or home depot didn't carry it. Plan on buying many sleeves (at least 15) and mount the sander sleeves at least an 1/8" past the end of the mandrel.