well hopefully it burns in the engine, I have seem where it went off in the UIM of an NA car and just blew the intake apart

LOL
NO!
Nitrous is not flammable. It a gas of one part nitogen and two parts oxygen. It is an oxidizer. An extreme oxidizer. Nitrous does two things that create more energy. It has like twice the oxygen of free air. Add extra gas and it works 3x better. It is also very cold and the expansion creates power as well. But it doesnt burn and by itself isn't explosive.

is your kit still for sale John? lol :P

Did I hear my Name?
They are all safe when installed correctly and used as most define.
Never engage nitrous until you have reached a minimum of 1500RPM. I prefer 2000. Things need to be moving through the manifold so you do not let the nitrous "pool" in the manifold. It causes a backfire. Remember it is not gas you are injecting, it'* nitrous in it'* liquid form. I used a purge to make sure it'* all liquid and your not getting a sputter which causes a backfire. When you stop injecting nitrous it is equally important to not just let go of the throttle abruptly or again, nitrous pooling can occur. Once you engage the nitrous keep your throttle firmly to the floor thru the gears. A "flinch" or sudden let off of the throttle creates a backfire.

Dry setups are really "ancient technology" and what gave nitrous a bad name in the beginnings. Dry nitrous setups can only help burn what gas the car normally delivers and when all the nitrous can't be utilized that causes backfire as well. You need to use copper or iridium coated copper plugs or the tips can burn off quickly and again, backfire. Seeing a pattern? Nitrous backfires can be quite violent as the gas and extreme oxidizer upchucks back up the intake...or whats left of it. They can be violent enough to crack intakes,fuel lines, cripple fuel lines, and even throw a piston.

Dry setups also make for easy engine damage. Being that you are using an extreme oxidizers to merely help what gas is normally delivered you are creating a very dry hot engine. Wet setups allow for more gas to be delivered at the same time as the nitrous and keep things in "balance". Zex systems are just a bit more than others but give you alot more efficiency and safety. Other brands are starting to follow suit with this kind of system. They are triggered by your TPS when it registers a full throttle response. As well the Zex wet systems have a computer chip that graduates the nitrous valve according to two factors. Both gasoline pressure being delivered from the fuel rail tap and existing nitrous pressure in your bottle. Both are critical measurements or.... you get backfires.

Not sure where people started think Nitrous was flammable. Maybe the similar name of nitro (methane)? You can even breath it. (If you know where to get it un-sulfated) Or a friendly visit to the Dentist.

Holy crap John. Where ya been. We have an entire generation of newbies that are snake bite free.

The wife is back to work at a new Clinic and things are good. But I'm just not ready to re-retire, get bored, and have to much time on my hands. Feels great to be active, alcohol free and pretty healthy for an old party snake. Still getting alot of commercial electrical jobs and it absorbs most of my time. Glad to see most of the Staff is still here and keeping things on an even keel. I'll get back into the swing of Forum life when I can.

Glad to hear things are going well for you.

zex makes a good dry and wet system. but like venom said, the wet system is the best and will produce the most hp for the money spent. my son blew up his ecotec engine running a dry 75 shot from zex. he had a 04 cavalier 5 sp and put down several 14.0 and 14.1 runs before it let go of a compression ring on the #1 cylinder. that was a stock 140 hp engine.
Personally i will not use nitrous on my ls1, seen to many engines go boom from the fuel soliniod quiting and squirting in pure nitrious and popping pistons. no way i will risk it. i am going to stay with my n/a engine as it is.