If you click Easy Performance in my last post, there in an article under tech info about it.
Wizbang (the owner of that company/site) R&Ded different rocker ratios and came up with the ER ratio. The exhaust and intake are different and they're soposidly somwhere around 1.8-1.85. The actual ratio was never released to the public.

wow interesting ill get those er rocker arms intead of the pro magnum

if the timing chain has not been replaced at all in your engine it is a good idea to get it replaced i would just go with the stock replacement set though

yes im planing of doing that

Would he need oil restricted pushrods for the roller rockers?

With the ammount of miles on the car:
Change the timing chain/dampner JP single will work fine. However when adding springs I like to loose the dampner. The dampner normally wears out quicker with 90/105/130 springs. So i would get a double roller-but thats me. And you will gain ~7hp on the top end from disabling the balance shaft.

Loose the TB spacer!
The PCM is normally worthless with an L36, unless you get a Dyno tune. The only benefit to the PCM is the skip shift feature. Many will say "I felt a difference with a PCM", however track times speak otherwise!!!

And head gaskets...normally they will last 250k miles on a stock car (or more). However I have seen quite a few that should've been replaced, normally about 140-150k miles.
The bad thing about head gaskets is if you see ZERO issues with them now, and you change them you are opening up possibilities of H/G failure.

Just an FYI-I've probably done more work with L36s than anyone-short of the big vendors.

I absolutely agree on replacing the timing chain while you're in there (gears too, the full set), and I already stated earlier to lose the TB spacer. Sounds like 13secGTP agrees with me on that too.

Head gaskets are really a coin flip. I personally wouldn't touch them at this point.

if i get the JP double roller timing set will it be a direct replacemnt or do i have to modified something like with the Rollmaster set

With the double roller it fits on the same as stock, just MUCH tighter.

You need to remove the gear on the balance shaft
As far as "modding" anything for it to work you have 2 choices:
1- get a machined oil pump plate $25 or so if you can find someone that will ship it
2 run 2 paper front cover gaskets, put a thin beed of gasket maker on all 4 sides

I chose option 2 for my build.

With 105# springs, just replacing the chain and tensioner will be fine. There is no need to replace the gears. Nobody does when replacing with stock chain/tensioner.. They just don't wear.

I ran 90# springs with shorter stock retainers (don't do that it ruins valve guides) which makes it around 130# seat pressure for 10k miles, and I ran with suggested LSx style retainers for 30k+ so far.
Those 90#ers are rougher on the timing chain/tensioner too. The seat pressure ends up being higher than 105#ers at full lift.

So there is no reason you can't get good mileage out of a stock chain/tensioner replacement.