That'* the plan.... but ultimately my timeline is dictated by my bank account . I'll run the Intense Standard until I can get a custom tune, which will be a step up because I've only been using a stock PCM so far. I need a custom tune, and I would rather go to a dyno than do a trial and error process through the mail with Intense or ZZP. The AFC will do for now, but when I can manage to get a tune, the AFC goes out the door.


Boost.... I'll check the PCV assembly and see how it looks. Thanks for the suggestion. Anything in particular that I should keep an eye on?

O-ring... I don't think you guys have the spring like the L67'* (unsure thought). I think Corvettecrazy or someones was making a whistling...went away when we pulled the pcv..checked it and ensured it was seated well.

Yep as long as the electrical is hooked up it won't throw a code.
Other people may be running it without problems but they don't have as high a compression, or are boosted.
The last thing you need is another reason to knock or mess up your fuel trims. Right now when that egr valve opens, your basically getting a vac leak.
I'm with Bill on using the afc to tune and getting a custom burn. I was pretty sure that was what you were planning on.
Forgot about the PVC.. That might get rid of your whistle. And it'* cheap too.

I'll do the EGR as soon as I get a chance. I have no tools for that kind of modification at hand, so I can't do it immediately. Maybe this weekend.

Mike, you're still running an AFC at this time, aren't you? It isn't bad to run one for a few months, is it?

I've been running my afc for over a year I think. I kinda gave up on getting my fueling perfect since it was going to change anyway as it got colder. I had to adjust my afc just to get my car to start this winter.. It was running way lean compared to the humid summer months.
So no harm in running it for a while.
I do agree with Bill that it'* not the best because it creates a more rigid 'multi-linear' fuel curve instead of a smoother logarithmic one. But I am able to get my fuel trims VERY close with it.

i get a whistle too near 4.5k when I relaly press it

Alright....

Doug and I decided we will be disconnecting the EGR from the LIM in the near future. Ideally I think it would be good to plug the hole in the LIM, remove the stovepipe, and epoxy the UIM to fill the hole that is left, creating a smooth surface for airflow. However, it is much simpler to merely plug the LIM where the EGR pipe normally connects and leave everything else as it is (stovepipe would remain in place, but would be non-functional).

What do you guys think would be the best course of action? I'm leaning toward the easier method, but I'll go the whole nine yards if performance will benefit. Thoughts?

I mean if you have time and really want to fill the hole in the UIM I'm say go for it. It may be more work than it'* worth though..
For now, if you don't have to take anything apart, I'd just plug the LIM. I'm just lazy like that though, especially in the winter.

Ah, but here'* the catch: We want to re-port the LIM, and....... I have a gigantic heated shop at my disposal. With a lift (not that it helps me on this job; I just wanted to rub it in ). So I've got the place to do it, it'* just a matter of whether or not it'* worth my time and energy.

All in all, it seems like you don't think it would be bad to leave the stovepipe in. Doug didn't think so, either. In that case, I might just leave it.

Does somebody happen to know the tap and plug sizes necessary to fill the outer EGR hole in the LIM?